About Sylvia

Vini, vidi, Paris... I look forward to sharing the fun, flavours and fashion of living in Paris with two teen Parisiennes and Mr French. A true Californian in search of that certain je ne sais quoi, I came to Paris an over weight, under-shod vegetarian. I've since learned to shave my legs, wear a bra, and act like a grown up. A lot of work, but I'm loving it, and my teens are oh so thankful now that I am infinitely less embarrassing.

10 reasons I’ll never be a Parisienne

…even though I really, really want to!

1/ My smile. Not only is it rather large and somewhat goofy, but I’ve got big white teeth and it inevitably pops up spontaneously at the worst moments, like when I spot Inès de la Fressange at a cocktail party, and I should stay cool about it, but can’t help grinning like some kind of psycho stalker.

2/ Can’t smoke tobacco. Sorry, never have and never will. Its dirty and disgusting and kills the taste buds, which would have serious consequences for my chocolate habit.

3/ Will never appreciate Foie Gras. Its not a moral issue and I am not so worried about the gaggles of geese who line up to be gavé-ed, but the stuff just tastes like fat to me. The “gras” should have tipped me off.

4/ My bones are too big. Which is a Cleopatra, Queen of Denial way of saying I am just too fat. Have always been too fat and will never been thin enough to be mistaken for a local fille.

5/ I LIKE wearing bulky, thick fleece sweat pants. They are comfortable, even if they do make my ass look as large as the Louvre. So why most most Frenchmen get to come home to a neatly pressed, fully coiffed, high heeled Madame? Mr French gets slobby me.

6/ Too much hair. I don’t know if its the water, genetics, or perhaps all the cigarette smoke, but Parisiennes have thin, straight hair that looks absolutely perfect when twisted into a messy blob at the nape of their necks. When I do that, I look like Cousin Itt on a bad hair day.

7/ I don’t complain enough. I am not being judgmental here, it is a well known regional pass time. My Little Paris made a video about it and there is a popular t-shirt that reads, “I heart nothing, I’m a Parisienne“. Clearly these folks have never spent a winter in Montréal, or a summer in San Francisco, or they’d realize, they’ve got nothing to complain about!

8/ I like to work. The French like holidays. Nothing wrong with vacations, but when your kids get a 2 week break every 6 weeks AND 2 months off for the summer holidays, well, it makes you wanna scream, au secours!!! And I’m not even going to start on les grèves...

9/ I kind of think its ok to eat when you’re hungry. I am not talking constant grazing, but I suspect if it was ok to have a little snack at the heure du goûter Parisiennes might smile a bit more and complain a bit less. It doesn’t have to be fattening, an apple a day…

10/ Did I mention that damn smile of mine?

Friday@Flore

C’est la rentrée !!! That means the streets are being over run by fresh faced, young students heading back to school! Autumn is in the air, even if it is not yet cold.

Some of the teens look infinitely happy than the others, and very few look thrilled to be back to the books.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even having friends close by does not seem to brighten some faces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were a few smiles, but maybe because these are international students who don’t really know what they are in for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The girl trios were looking chicer and slightly less miserable than the rest. Really kind of makes you wonder what class they all just escaped.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wish them all the best of luck and hope to see them later in the semester looking slightly less glum and gloomy!!!

 

ps – Across the pond, a certain American student is looking considerably less chic, yet infinitely more enthusiastic!!!

Put a lid on it

Paris, the City of Love, the City of Lights, the City of Romance, the City of hot, passionate, spontaneous sex. There seems to be a lot of that going on in the city these days, and for the most part, that is a good thing. But with 7 000 new HIV infections in France each year and approximately 40-50,000 infected people who have never been tested, our socialist mayor, Bertrand Delanoë thinks its time to do something to educate all those teens out there putting themselves at risk. Being a smart man, he is not trying to stop kids from having sex. Parisians have no problem with electing a gay mayor, but introducing the uniquely American concept of Promise Rings would signal an end to any Frenchman’s political career.

So the City of Paris has decided to protect the sexual active and is holding a condom design contest. At first I got all excited about the project, imagining clever designs that would rise to the occasion, but I got a bit a head of myself and they’re really only talking about the packages. 500,000 packages which will be distributed across the city throughout 2013. To participate, the designer must be a Paris resident and over 16 years old. Design concepts are uploaded on the dedicated Facebook page and the wo/man with the most votes wins the right to have their artwork be there for some very interesting moments (if only the wrapper could rap).

If you’re not an artist, you can still log on and vote for your favorite designs. The city is expecting a plethora of preservatif protected Eiffel Towers, capote coated July columns and poteca swathed obélisks. My personal favorite today is probably the Paris Ponts with an illustration of the love locks by Louise Kinet, but Justine Collette’s J’aime me proteger probably says it best in the heat of the moment.

The winner will receive a free iPad, but depending on the designer and her/his lifestyle second or third place may be more financially rewarding; 1 year’s supply of condoms. I just love sitting back and picturing how you claim that prize. Is it an avg. of the last three years activity? Do you call on demand?

Contest runs until Nov 3, click here to participate.

the sunset…

E left for University this morning. In a few days I may be immensely sad, but for right now, I am just incredibly proud of her and excited as she starts out on a great new adventure. Before she headed out, I concocted an evil plot to wrench her from her friends and ensure some quality family time, I kidnapped her this last weekend and took her to Deauville with the family; me, Mr French, M and La Fashionista.

E and I took the train. Two hours from the Gare St Lazare to Trouville-Deauville and then a 2 minute walk to our hotel. I love European train travel!

After a long walk along the beach, we headed to Dupont for their famous hot chocolate, but it was closed, so we opted for cocktails at Le Drakkar. Our faces fell when we saw the cocktail menu. It was a very sad little list. But the two girls next to us were drinking something that looked light, refreshing and absolutely delicious, which brought us to DISCOVERY #1 / Pamplemousse Rosé; a glass of rosé with creme de pamplemousse*, basically a summer kir, served with ice cubes and grapefruit wedges. La Fashionista let us know that it was THE drink of the summer and I totally get it, it was absolutely YUM! Nothing serious, but exactly the right flavours for the moment.

 

The next morning was bright and beautiful. The nearly mandatory Normandy fog had stayed at bay. We were thrilled, enjoying a great run that became something of an adventure when I insisted the tide was going out and encouraged Mr French to follow me to the cove at the end of the beach. 3 minutes later he shouted for my attention and pointed to the break-water we had just passed. 3 meters of the beach had disappeared under the waves, and by the time we ran the 3 minutes back, a full 6 meters had been engulfed. We

had to climb the break-water back, but with each step I took, the beach got further and further away. Half way across, I was totally stuck, my only option to jump into the waist deep water and wade to shore.

Which made for a somewhat soggy moment as I savoured an orange pressé by the sea. For lunch we took the little Bac to Les Vapeurs in Trouville and I spent the entire, mercifully short ride making stupid jokes about forcing E to take the Bac again, which earned me plenty of adolescent eye rolls.

Their patience with my sense of non-humour was rewarded much later that afternoon by DISCOVERY #2, a sunset stroll along the beach on horse back. The Pony Club de Deauville  organises these rides on weekends, tide permitting. The tide permitted and it was the highlight of out weekend.

Dinner that night was DISCOVERY #3 / L’Essentiel. My trusted Lefooding app had nothing for Deauville, yet everytime I did a google search for suggestions, this name came out at the top of the list. Standing in the hotel lobby earlier in the day, I had just said the word and the receptionist had gone into spouts of ecstasy. She knew her food, because the food was FANTASTIC French-Thai fusion. Lots of explosive, fresh flavours very high quality ingredients, like Wagyu beef. So good, I’d go back tomorrow and kind of wish there was something this tongue tingling exciting in Paris.

This weekend was a dream, with perfect weather, fantastic food and family. The perfect goodbye as E heads off into the sunset…

Pony Club de Deauville / 02 31 98 56 24 / poneyclubdedeauville@orange.fr

L’Essentiel / 29 rue Mirabeau, Deauville / 02 3187 22 11

*pamplemousse = grapefruit

Seriously? Again?

Last month I regaled you all with my French bureaucratic adventures helping Mr French replace a lost/stolen passport. The joys, the anguish, the utterly overwhelming stress. So you can imagine my somewhat nuclear reaction when I sat down at the computer last Friday, logged on to Air France and proceeded to enter E’s passport information for her trip to Chicago this Wednesday. This is THE trip. As in the flight that will be taking her to the US to study at the University of Chicago for the next four years.

After I’d dutifully entered all the required information a little red line of text appeared above the expiration date; E’s passport had expired!?! Seriously?How could that possibly be? Well, at heart, we’re French, so we travel on French passports. We only use our US passports when traveling to the US, and that is only because authorities will not let us enter the country on foreign passports.

So, this morning, bright-eyed, bushy tailed and anticipating the worst, we were at the US Consulate to request an emergency passport. After this weekend’s protests we feared security would be extremely tight, so we left our cellphones, electronics, bottled water and even our belts at home, showing up with just our paperwork. The security guards actually applauded us in gratitude.

And there were quite a few guards to applaud. There is security forcing you to cross the street in front of the Embassy, next to the Consulate, a security tent on the sidewalk outside, then a security building before you enter the main building, and finally a patrolled line of people waiting to be handed a number for the long wait ahead.

Once you have your number, you can sit in one of two areas with a total of 120 always occupied seats for US citizens and visa applicants. There are vending machines with entire meals in case you start getting faint with hunger, a photo booth for official Emergency-Only passport photos and a large, red box bearing the sign, SAFE HAVEN kit, for Multi-trauma Emergencies. MULTI-TRAUMA only. Good to know that we are prepared for MULTIPLE injuries. Thanks for the reminder, guys.

We then wait as we hear one US citizen after another explain how their passport was stolen. A few are there for extra pages in their passports, or the paper work for a minor child, but mostly these were folks who had been robbed in the night. Note to self; keep that passport off the street and always stash a spare credit card separate from the rest of my papers/credit cards, it will save hours of hassle.

The cashier at the Consulate wears a yellow id around his neck with the words “WMD first responder” and a nuclear symbol artistically printed up the side. WMD? Weapons of Mass Destruction. Just so you know, this is the go-to guy if the embassy ever comes under nuclear attack. I’m guessing that means he knows the code to the fall-out shelter.

I know I’m becoming French, because I had brought along every document listed on the Embassy website PLUS E’s plane tickets, university acceptance letter, the invitation to Orientation, a hotel reservation for the first night, and an Orange bill less than three months old. They didn’t ask to see any of it. They simply made her take an oath that everything she’d said was true to the best of her knowledge. Then, exactly 2 hours after our arrival, E had a hot-off-the-press passport that will ensure her legal arrival in Chicago tomorrow.

So in the end, would I rather loose my French passport, or my American one? It’s a draw… the French version drowns you in paperwork until you want to blow the place up, while the US counterpart scares the crap out of you with constant reminders that somebody, somewhere out there, would like to blow you up.

ps On a more sober note, given the climate in the world today, the people who get up every morning, kiss their loved ones good bye and head off to an office that is an international target, well, my hats are off you.

 

 

Lèche vitrine*

a Street reNamed Happiness

Growing up, I was not the girl with movie star posters on her walls. Luke Skywalker did not melt my butter and I had no dreams of cycling off into space with my very own ET. I was a grounded girl I figured, my feet firmly planted in the rich California earth. Then the Goodfellas came out and I nearly swooned for Ray Liotta. Turns out, I like the bad boys. The really bad boys.

Which is when I realized that us girls, we all have a very particular taste of our own. Someone at adopteunmec.com must like bad boys, too, because she has helped he online dating site go brick and mortar, opening up a pop-up shop for single women.

Pilot Mec, I always wanted the Barbie plane!

Like human Barbies, the available men are displayed in large, pink boxes, with detailed instructions on the side just waiting to be unwrapped by an anxious young girl under the Christmas tree.

As I walked into the shop, I felt like Barbie herself, the entire Matel universe brought to life with a pilot, veterinarian, gym buff, and surfer dude. As I clapped my hands in glee, I turned to see Thomas, the event photographer who I met last week and who also happens to be a very good friend of La Fashionista (Mr French’s daughter).

“I’m…. I’mmmmmm….. here for work,” he stuttered, pointing to his camera and very hard-to-miss tripod.

“Yes, me too,” very glad to have OutandAboutinParis by my side as chief witness to my innocent curiousity.

Monsieur Surfer Dude

At 15h the place was humming like a night club, crowds spilled out on to the rue du Bonheur, with live music spun by Mr Techni, an open bar and plenty of treats to seduce the girls. Adopteamec gets girls. There was chocolate, and bubble gum pink tagadas, and mouth satisfying Magnum bars to pleasure their fantacies as they popped into a box with the tux clad Mr Chic, or the plugged in Mr Geek.

I had been shooting the IHT early that morning, so I thought it would be fun to get the guys with the paper. Opening the box of Mr Chic, I expected a look of utter horror. I am probably closer to his mother’s age than his own. But this is France where age matters less, and I was greeted with a warm invite.

Le Bar, serving teddy bears, red heads and geeks

As stereotyoes would have it, Mr Chic held the paper up to pose, Mr Geek started reading and I had to pry it from his hands, while Mr Muscle just held it up to the plastic box, the concept of reading well beyond his imagination.

If you’re looking for a bad boy of your own, Adopteamec is at 15 rue des Halles in the 1st until next week, before hitting the road for the dating capitals of Europe…

 

*Lèche Vitrine means window shopping, but translate as Window licking

*Adopt a Dude

Friday@Flore with the IHT

Earlier this week my friend from Out and About Paris contacted to let me know that the International Herald Tribune was celebrating its 125 anniversary, and for the fête, they’ve invited readers to post photos of themselves reading the IHT where ever they happen to be. Then they gave suggestions, “Is that you reading the IHT at Café de Flore in Paris?”

 

 

 

OMG, she texted (not a direct quote, she is far more sophisticated in her discourse) you have GOT to do this for Friday@Flore. Et voilà an idea was born.

If you have not yet noticed, I am still kind of shy about asking people to actually stop so that I can take their picture. It chalk it up to a nasty experience involving me, my Nikon, a Masai warrior and his spear. I brought along two models from home, bribing them with free coffee and maybe a croissant if they were good.

And they were very good, reading their paper, discussing a fold out on The Art of Collecting for the Biennale des Antiquaires that is coming to the Grand Palais this weekend and drooling over the full page Longines ad, sporting the photo of the actor from the tv show, The Mentalist.

 

I had really wanted to show that is was the Flore, but for the first time in ages, it was not raining and the awning was drawn. Time for a better angle, which inspired me to approach these two rather dapper Parisiens and ask them to put down their papers (Le Monde et La Libération) to read the IHT for a minute or so. The both complied kindly and I felt that warrior ghost of mine take a strategic step backwards.

Of course, there are more important men at the Café de Flore, so I asked ‘my’ server to be part of the show. He was thrilled to comply, but his co-server was a bit disgruntled that we had not asked him. In the end, everyone had to have their turn!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I started thinking of the servers and when the first garçon may have spied an American catching up on international news with his IHT, which is when I learned that the two institutions were founded in 1887. They’re both turning 125 this year!!!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY IHT and the Café de Flore!!!

 

 

Les ados…

French Jr moved in this week. Its a temporary arrangement as he changes flats, which is something of a shock to the system for all of us. He’s sleeping on the couch, in the living room, just 1.5 meters from my desk, which explains why it is currently 10am and I am still holed up in my bed, computer propped on my knees, trying to sort the sheets of paper from the linen sheets.

It can’t be easy for him, especially when Mr French and I head into the kitchen for our breakfast, turning on lights and clanging around pots before the sun has yet risen. And it is somewhat surreal for my two girls who have never really lived with a boy before. Two teenaged girls who must now share a bathroom with a boy. A hip 22 year old boy.

Day 1 – I go into their bathroom and find not one, not two, but THREE pairs of thong underwear that somehow never found their way into the laundry bin.

“Girls” I shout, “come put your panties away.”
“Relax, its not like anyone is going to see them!”
“Oh yeah, and Jr? You don’t mind Jr seeing your itsy bitsy, teeny weenies?”

3 nanoseconds later the bathroom is spotless, the panties gone, zit creams hidden and sanitary items put in their proper drawers, instead of left in a box on the floor. I can see that I am going to enjoy this.

Day 2 – Mr French has a business dinner and I’m headed out to test Le Grand Pan (excellent btw) with a girl friend. The three kids have dinner together. Later that night, after yelling at the girls for not having taken care of their dinner dishes, I ask them how the evening had gone.
“Horrid,” replied one or the other. “We couldn’t watch a show, or, like, do anything. We just had to sit there and talk. So annoying” Films during mealtime are forbidden, as is singing at the table or dancing on the chairs, but they seem to forget this at every meal so dinner is often a chorus of “No singing at the table”. I’m considering giving the new situation an FB Like.

Last night – We book the tickets to visit E in Chicago this October. M is thrilled and starts packing immediately. There is a moment of total panic when she realizes her leather jacket is missing. I have two younger sisters, lived in University dorms and M is my second daughter. I don’t exactly go into panic mode over missing accessories, unless they are my own. A few phone calls later and she remembers it had been lent to T who accidentally left it at E’s, so E brought it home and it is now at N’s.

I’ve had enough, so I head up the hall into the living room where Jr is deeply invested in his social media. M comes tearing after me. “Moooooooomm, it’s  CA-Ta-strophe!!! We’re going to have to get me some new bras in the US, haven’t you noticed, look my boobs have grown.”

The next sound in the house was a short, dry “Oh” followed by the scurry of mortified footsteps heading back down the hall. Je suis mdr.*

* I am mort de rire (dying with laughter)

dys-fonctionnaires

Right now, I am sitting in the offices of the Caisse d’Allocation Familial. These are the folks who give out subsidies to families with children, and help students pay their rent. We’re a motley lot; foreigners, people with handicaps and single moms. The woman at the ‘welcome’ desk is yelling at everyone as they come through the door, putting all her energy into turning us away. I am one of the fortunate ones; well educated, a proper breakfast in my stomach, and two kids safe at school. With decent prospects, I have plenty of confidence for the arguing and bullying required. Being very persistent, I am given a deli ticket. It is not golden, but it gives me the right to wait my turn and speak with someone who may actually be able to help.

At most of the places I visited this week: the tax authority, city hall and social security, there is a very similar UNwelcome desk, where a ‘host’ does everything possible to convince you that you are in the wrong place, missing certain essential documents and would be doing everyone a favor if you’d just leave. It is one of the most frustrating aspects to living in France.

I used to take it personally: it was my fault and I had to arrive better prepared. I was very relieved last spring when the über cool, totally French Ioudgine blogged about the 146 days she wasted unsuccessfully trying to get the local tax authorities to correct their own computer error so that she could actually PAY her taxes.

Its not as easy as it sounds. For example, you almost always need a phone, gas, or electricity bill that is less than 3 months old and has your name spelled correctly with an address that is the exact same as the one where you claim to live. But I no longer have a land line and our building is gas-free. This leaves the electric company, which has misspelled both of our names, and has the address they use to access our building, not the mailing address I need to use for administrative purposes. With an annual plan, I only receive a bill once a year, anyway.

So I wait patiently at the CAF, caressing my worry beads to the mantra, “thank god for Photoshop” and I breath. My number is called, the visit is brief and I leave the office with a pre-printed list of additional documents they require. This list is different from the one they mailed to my home that had me coming to the office to begin with and I am only here because they want to “regularize” my situation. Which, actually, does not involve them because they don’t give me anything and I have asked for nothing. Urgh….

The bright side to all of this is that I am convinced its the reason the French invented champagne and perfected chocolate. We need it!!