Get Bac!

The French think, therefore they are...

Everyday my daughter goes online and reads posts from American and Canadian friends who are heading off to jobs at summer camp, going on vacation, or savouring the end of their high school careers. It is not the highlight of her day as she bunkers down and studies for the baccalaureate exams.

The French bac is a series of maybe 12 oral and written exams given in three or four languages at the end of a student’s junior and senior years. Their entire high school career depends on the results of these exams and will play a large role in each student’s future. And since the essay exams are often four hour tests in which a student responds to one or two questions, a lot can go wrong very quickly.

For students going to the US, there is less pressure. They simply need to pass their bac. Those going to England or Canada have been given a minimum grade required by their university. 14 or 15 points maybe required, which is difficult, but not impossible. For students continuing on in France, it is much more complicated and they won’t even know all of their options before mid-July.

Understanding the bac could almost require a degree of its own. There are three different baccalaureates. Science, Social-Economics and Literature. Some of these bacs are more prestigious than others. Each subject of the bac is assigned a value, called a coefficient. The coeff may have a different value for the same exam, depending on which bac you are taking. For example, French is coeff 2 for SE students, but 3 for L students. The results of a test with a coeff 7 are much more important than the results of an exam with a coeff 4. The coeff determines the importance of a exam in calculating the students final grade, because at the end of all those exams, that’s what you get, one final grade. No pressure there.

And if all that is not complicated enough, each bac also has a series of specialties and optional exams that allow students to earn extra points, with subjects like Ancient Greek, or Music. There is also an Option Internationale for all baccalaureate candidates striving for that extra challenge. With the OI, students may find themselves studying from a French language text book for an English language history exam.

As this blog posts, every French high school senior in the country has just finished their first* their major épreuve, the Philosophy exam; 4 hours, 1 question, ready, set, GO…. Each bac (S, SE, or L) has a different set of questions to choose from. Questions like; Does art change our perception of reality? Are politics a science or an art? Is communication the only use of language? Can we know the truth? Why protect the weak?

The entire country spends the next three days discussing the questions and expounding for hours over all the possible replies. It tops the news of the day, takes over business meetings and dominates dinner conversation. Bringing all of France together in an annual exercise of deep thought. As soon as the questions are made public today, I’ll be heading to the Flore to eavesdrop on philosophers like Bernard-Henri Lévy and hear how they would have answered. But if I didn’t have to stay close to home, THE place to head would have to be the Café des Philosophes in the Marais.

EAVESDROPPING AFTER THE BAC PHILO/ Café des Philosophes

28 rue Vieille du Temple / (M) St Paul / 01 48 87 49 64

* except the OI students who already had a few oral exams last week.

UPDATE/ This year’s questions…

Sujets Philosophie Bac S 2012

1/ Avons-nous le devoir de chercher la vérité ? Is searching for the truth our responsibility?
2/ Serions-nous plus libres sans l’Etat ? Would we be freer without government?
3/ Commentary on a text by Rousseau (Emilie)

Sujets Philosophie Bac L 2012

1/ Que gagne-t-on en travaillant ? What does one earn through work?
2/ Toute croyance est-elle contraire à la raison ? Is all faith contrary to logic?
3/ Commentary on a text by Spinoza (Traité théologico-politique)

Sujets Philosophie Bac ES 2012

1/ Peut-il exister des désirs naturels ? Can natural desires exist?
2/ Travailler, est-ce seulement être utile ? To work, is it uniquely about being useful?
3/ Commentary on a text by Berkeley (Devoir et obéissance)

Happy Father’s Day!!!

Once upon a time a little girl had a dream. It was an odd dream. She wanted to cross the seas and live in a strange, far away land where the people spoke a funny language and ate stinky cheese. The dream was particularly odd, because the little girl was already very happy; she had two fantastic parents, a very sweet brother and tons of fresh cherries from the cherry tree in their backyard. The little girl’s parents had other, really important things to worry about and didn’t really know much about this strange land, but they loved their daughter very much, so they gave her the very best education possible, and they showed her the ancient redwoods, and they took her to the nearest city and they opened her mind and they promised that someday, they would send the little girl to the land of her dreams.

One day, the Mom died. But the Dad was there and through his grief he remembered their promise, so he sent the girl to this very strange land. She was only 16 and there he was, putting his little girl on a plane. Alone. Letting your children go is never easy, but sending them to a far off land you’ve never visited can be very scary. And he was right to be scared, because the girl truly loved this strange land, so she went again. And again. Then one day she moved there and only came back for holidays, and even then, not very often.

By that time, the Dad had learned to love this land, too, and he understood why the girl wanted to live there and he saw that she was happy. It made him happy that she was so happy and had found her home. But it also made him a little sad, because it was so very far away and he didn’t get to see her very often. And then she had two beautiful little girls, so he missed them, too.

But he made the girl feel very proud about her life, and the job she was doing raising her daughters. And everyday the little girl would wake up and thank the powers of the universe that she had a Dad who had shaped her into the kind of woman who would make her dreams come true.

Happy Father’s Day, Dad. I miss you and I love you very much.

Happy Father’s Day Grandpa, love, Evan & Maya. You’re the best!!! Mwahhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

Friday@Flore

The fashion at Flore is fantastic, but what first drew me to this café was the history. Once there, I loved the vintage ambiance; mosaic floors, intricate glass light fixtures and the traditional green tables. Oh, and the dame de pipi. Not many places still have a bathroom monitor, but the Flore does, and she sits there, making sure the restrooms stay clean demanding a few centimes for your visit and offering candy as you leave. Makes you feel like you’re 7 years old. I kind of liked being 7.

But I started coming back for the people. Like Dominique, a waiter, but also a photographer who keeps a bird call whistle in his mouth, spontaneously spouting zippidy-doo-dah’s that leave visitors looking towards the sky, trying to identify the flock overhead. I get a infantine thrill when he does this in the inner terasse, and clients swoowh down, protecting their heads as they look for the renegade sparrow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I am not alone in my fetish, these men are stereotypically impatient Parisiens who are not really familiar with the concept of waiting in line.  And they are regulars, so normally, they’d expect special treatment, but the tables on the terasse at the Flore are on a first come, first served basis. Trying to jump the line may earn you the wrath of the staff and that is a daunting thought, so they stand there and wait. And wait…

Here is someone who never has to wait. Bernard-Herni Lévy is France’s foremost philosopher. Yes, being a philosopher is actually a career in France and Henri is famous for doing it while wearing a bespoke white shirt, wide open to the sternum. Even while visiting war torn Libya (he played a not insignificant role in the tear). He is also famous for his sex symbol girlfriend Arielle Dombasle. He is so cool that we just call him BHL.

Then there are all the people who just look famous, even if they’re not.

Today was a particular fan-ta-bulous day at the FLore, because we had a brief window of sunshine and the girls were out in their most colorful finery, thrilled to be wearing summer cloths, even if it was for just 1/4 of the day.

The End.

Not yet a room of my own…

I love writing. I get up in the morning and more than a cup of coffee, the first thing I want is to sit at my computer and hit the keyboard. As I head to my desk, I often find myself tripping over a pile of laundry that desperately needs cleaning, as I pop it in to the machine, I notice that the kitchen needs a quick sweep and as I sweep, I realize that we’re out of bananas for breakfast. Heading to the market, I grab some dry cleaning that needs to be dropped off, and before I know it I’ve spent the day doing housework. I am someone who needs to work outside the home.

In my search for a work space, I consulted an expert…a literature professor who has spent much of his life in libraries.  I listed my requirements; comfortable, airy place with plenty of natural light, an electrical outlet and wifi.  Like a true friend, Karl put me in my place informing me that natural light destroys books. Expectations adjusted, we headed out. First, he brought me to Mitterand’s Bibliothèque Nationale… too big, then to the Bibliothèque de Paris André Malraux… too small and finally to his persona favorite, the Bibliothèque Mazarine… just right.

It was love at first sight. We walked up a handful of steps into an oval light well, sun dappling the black and white checked floor. The sedate spiral staircase that leads up is lined with busts of famous, blank faced luminaries. Entering the reading room, the ancient parquet floor creaked under our feet. We stopped to open a drawer from the old card catalogue cabinets and inspected one of the thousands of cards bearing intricate script that had flowed from feather pens in the 1800‘s on to now yellowing stock. They are obsolete, the system has been digitized, but the cards remain.

The Bibliothèque Mazarine was opened to the public in 1643 by Louis XIV’s advisor, Cardinal Mazarin, and it is the oldest public library in France.  The library itself is relatively small with only four large tables running across the façade of the building and ten tables continuing down the eastern wing.  Each table is equipped with two large reading lamps and ten embedded brown leather blotters bearing gold embossed numbers that direct readers to their assigned seats.  The twenty-four foot high walls are lined with bookcases, each filled with ancient tomes from the 16th to 19th centuries. The works are arranged according to height, with the tallest books on the bottom shelves and the smallest books up in the rafters. Each row is carefully protected by hanging green baize dust covers, creating a restful symmetry that would make Martha Stewart swoon.

Between the bookcases stand ionic columns, each providing a stately backdrop to the bust of historical figures such as Cicero, Benjamin Franklin, and Molière.  The entire room is topped like an inverted wedding cake by a mezzanine rimmed with iron work balustrades that visually support an additional ten vertical feet of book shelves, this time filled with collections of all the same size, looking a bit forgotten and rather forlorn up there, removed from their only source of life, the readers.

And there are windows, UV’s be damned!  18 glorious french-paned windows perhaps four feet wide and eighteen feet high stand among the columns of the bookcases.  My favorite windows are along the façade and look out on to the Pont des Arts as it stretches from the left bank to the Louvre, providing passage across today’s roiling brown waters of the Seine.  As I take a brief break I can watch lovers sharing an umbrella as they stroll along the quai and bemused tourists gazing skywards while crossing the historic span.

I share my new work space with men and women both young and old.  Some, like myself, merely come here because it is a pleasant place to study, read, or write.  Others are here for research from the more that half a million tomes that dominate this space.  Many of the books here are so precious that they must be perused under the supervision of library staff.  Others are furnished with two triangular pillows that serve to cradle the book and protect its spine.  Strolling among the readers, one can see pages that have turned ivory with the passage of time, their brittle leaves supporting frayed and uneven edges, telling tales perhaps as rich as the printed work on the pages.
THE LIBRARY/ Bibliothèque Mazarine

Running

A gold gilded run

I seem to be getting older everyday, and that means I’m getting a bit fatter, too. Like many Parisiennes, I love my wardrobe and it is full of favorites from decades past. Unlike many Parisiennes, I eat too much. Which means that if I want my painstakingly curated wardrobe to fit me this season, and seasons to come, I have to move my ass. I hate running, but there are no decent gyms in our new neighborhood, so I am left with no choice, but to run.

The thing that saves me is the view. Once you get over the heavy breathing, running in Paris can be fun. In the Luxembourg gardens you start to recognize folks. There is the Kenyan looking gentleman who seems to run all day, everyday, whizzing past even the firemen as if he is training for a marathon. There are the firemen, keeping in shape for the next emergency, the lady in a nice blazer and a banana belt who shuffles along, and a homeless man with mismatched shoes. A bunch of runners got together and bought him a new pair of running shoes. He still wears them mismatched. I guess its his “look”.

I could almost forget I am running

But running in circles is not really my thing. I’m happier going places, so we run along the Seine, passing the city’s most beautiful monuments. Eye candy is sweet, but doesn’t go to the hips. There are worse places one could run.

On particularly gorgeous weekends, we may head to Versailles early in the morning. This weekend, we had the entire Chateau grounds to ourselves as the staff prepared for the swarms of tourists who were just outside the gates, waiting for the Grandes Eaux Musicales. It was magical running in the coolness of the early morning as a light fog lifted, revealing the palace in all its grandeur.

One loop around the Tuileries ends our run.

When I start acting particularly petulant and need a kick in my fat ass bit of motivation, Mr French throws me into his car and heads up to Deauville for the day. We arrive early by French standards and run along the boardwalk before the crowds awake; heading from the tip of the port to the large rocks beyond Tourgeville and back, followed by a delicious swim in the salt water Olympic swimming pool on the beach. So heavenly I actually want to run!

MORE INFORMATION/ Deauville Pool

 

Stuck

Risking my life...

I’m tired. It is late in the evening and I have been working off-site all week. My feet hurt from my relatively high heels and the weather has been depressingly grey… I am really looking forward to getting home and having a quiet dinner with my family.

The anticipation mounts as we arrive at Ecole Militaire, I am just one stop from my warm flat where a cashmere throw awaits my chilled bones. The metro stops. We’re between stations, so we sit there looking at one another. We shrug. This happens fairly often and nobody is particularly alarmed. The minutes pass. The driver gets on the intercom, ensuring us that it won’t be long. Technical difficulties. Tick tock. More time passes. The lady next to me pulls out a snack.  I call home and warn them I’ll be a bit late.

A great place for an after hours party

10 minutes and several announcements later, we have not budged. Some of the younger guys notice that we are stopped at one of the phantom stations that exist throughout the system. We have a platform. The men open the doors and we can get out to mill around in the underground dusk, reveling in the freedom. Only three cars access the platform; most of the passengers are stuck in their tin cans, anxiously waiting liberation. Over an hour has passed.

A tight squeeze!

Finally, the driver gets on the intercom and explains that the train is having electrical problems which have killed the brake system. We are all relieved that our driver refuses to drive a train without brakes. RATP employees arrive on the platform, announcing that the electrical system on the entire line has been turned off so that we can walk the rails back to the Ecole Militaire station. We are being evacuated.

As we take the stairs down from the platform the employee advises us, “The walls are disgustingly dirty, stay to your right to avoid the filth.” Thanks for the tip! I keep this in mind, while still sticking a bit to the left, because that is what everyone else is doing. I figure that there must be a reason as I hop from metro tie, to metro tie, avoiding the rough gravel that threatens to chew away at my gorgeous Fratelli Rosetti boots.

It is a slow, long slog. As we near the station, light pours in and I see the front of a metro train, directly in front of me, at eye level. This is not something you get to see everyday and my photographer instincts take over. Out slips the camera and I leave the crowd to stand in the middle of the tracks for my shot.

An hysterical RATP employee starts yelling at me from the platform above, waving her arms and acting like a mad lunatic. A gallant Frenchman in a business suit tells her off.

“She has been in the tunnel for hours. She earned this photo. Let her take some pictures!”

Oui, oui, I understand, but even when we turn off the electricity, there is still a current. She could electrocute herself.” Came the stoic reply.

Merde!!! I was standing on live tracks. I hot-footed it back to safety and marveled at the mentality of the RATP employee who had thought to caution us against filthy walls, but hadn’t thought to mention the live wires.

As I walked up the stairs, the employee who had warned me was being verbally attacked by a very upset parisienne who wanted a new pair of shoes to replace the ones that had just been eaten away by the viscous gravel we had tip-toed through. This may explain why we were warned about the soot. The RATP would rather a few fried passengers than the wrath and dry cleaning bills of an entire train full of parisiens.

Of course, the bus stop was overwhelmed by rejected metro users. I had no choice but to retrace my steps above ground, returning to La Motte Picquet, thrilled to be home at last.

SHOES WORTH PROTECTING/ Fratelli Rosetti

Wine, not…

San Francisco is great wine country, but in our little world, wine was a weekend treat to be enjoyed with friends over a good barbeque, or with a picnic at the beach. It was not a beverage, but a special moment.

Then we moved to Paris.

The first month we had an expense account and no kitchen. I got to eat out every day, twice a day. At lunch time I’d notice my neighbors whetting their palate with rich, enticing reds to accompany their confit de canard. It was one of the coldest winters in history and everyone was eating gras. After three days of this, I decided to do something wild and order a glass of wine with my lunch. I was drinking alone, mid-day and it was lovely.

After lunch I’d explore the neighborhood, learning where to shop and finding the men and women who would be making my life livable; a tailor, a cobbler, and a glazier to replace the 150 year old glass window my daughters broke, were priorities. So was a cavist who didn’t try to take advantage of my accent and sell me astronomically expensive grand crus for my coq au vin recipe. Which is how I met Didier, at Ryst Dupeyron, an armagnac specialist operating from a shop that has been in business for over a century. Or, about the year my daughters’ window was first installed.

Didier turned me on to Armagnac, offered Porto tastings and hooked me up with Lillet. He’d introduce me to a new apéritif every week and every week I’d buy a bottle to bring home and try with the girls’ dad. We were developing something of a cellar.

At dinner, we couldn’t resist a glass, or perhaps even 1/2 a carafe with our meals. Did I tell you it was cold out? It was cold out and we were having the time of our lives tasting all these complex, mind pleasing subtle French wines to pair with all of the new French recipes I was testing out and the fabulous cheeses we were savouring. It was wonderful. And we weren’t even gaining weight!

One morning I awoke with a head ache. Like a normal person, I went to take a pain killer from the medicine cabinet. In a moment of bizarre inspiration, I decided to test my reading skills and read the warning label on my Tylenol (Doliprane). It read,

“If you consume three, or more glasses of alcohol each day, consult a physician before taking this medication.”

I scoffed. Then I hesitated and counted. One glass at lunch, an apéro, one, maybe two glasses with dinner. 1+1+2=4. Holy moly, TinTin, I was an alcoholic!!!

I was shocked, and a bit disappointed to realize that I had been destroying my liver without really having had the fun of being drunk. I have since matured and (try to) limit myself to a glass at dinner only a couple nights a week, with a touch of folie on the weekends. Not an easy task, but a working girl must work.

MY SUPPLIER/ Ryst Dupeyron

Friday@Flore

It is not an easy season to be photographing fashion. Hell, it is not an easy season for anyone but the taxi drivers. What was all that fuss about a drought? The weather has been down right schizophrenic, going from bright, sunny, summer weather one moment, turning into sheets of pouring rain the next.

It is hard to keep apace with the season, as our fashion conscious souls scream for sandals and summer dresses, while our minds think of the practicalities of Paris puddle hopping and staying warm. This woman has a nice little mix going on, with her modern trench protecting her from the rain, while high-cuffed jeans let hope spring eternal for spring.

 

Some have just surrendered, giving in completely to the early fall. I love that she’s wearing socks, so that she could potentially slip them off if the sun ever did start to shine. Not a bad option to the boots so many of use are still pulling on to our feet each morning.

And then, we crack. We can’t take another minute of the gloom, so the eternal optimists put on their skirts, leave their legs bare and leave us all with a spring in our step, hoping for more sunshiny moments to come.

This girl was so stunning that I actually asked to take her picture. She was surprised, taken off guard and happy to play along. She had no idea how perfect she looked standing there.

The men don’t seem to be loving it any better than us girls. The white’s are out and color is IN. Rain be damned.

These guys are not letting the weather, or anything else get them down. One of the great things about shooting Friday@Flore is that I get to meet some interesting people. Yassine and his friend obviously spend time working their up do’s but they don’t take themselves too seriously, even taking some time to pose for the old lady with her camera.

 

Ode to Corey Hart

My fashion frames

Well, not really, but like him, I am obsessed with sunglasses.

When we first moved to Paris I owned a great pair of lemonade-green Ellen Tracy’s with a serious 90’s flair, a ne plus ultra pair of Giorgio Armani’s from the 80’s and I was soon offered a hipster-cool (before hipsters were cool) pair of blue tinted Italian shades. I lacked fpr nothing, but I really, really wanted these very great tortoiseshell Persols. Really, wanted them. Some times I went to sleep thinking about them, petty girl that I am. But as my daughter’s strict Irish nanny would say, “I want gets you nothing.”

Found frames

That spring I chaperoned my daughter’s class to the Luxembourg gardens to watch Brazilian dancers perform for La Fête de la Musique. As we strolled through the park, chatting and herding kids, a teacher came up to a group of us declaring “Tiens, look what I found!”
She was holding a pair of “my” Persols!
“Wow,” I declared, “those are excellent glasses. Perhaps we should bring them to lost and found?”
“Are you nuts?” scoffed la parisienne, “that would be giving a gift to the park staff, they’ll just keep them for themselves.”
With the thousands who passed through the park each day, I kind of saw her point. “Well,  keep them, they’re awesome.”
“I already have this model. Do you want them? If not, maybe Catherine is interested.”
Ethical dilemma. I was still thinking we should return them, but there was no ‘we’ and if I didn’t accept the offer, Cat would. “Oui, merci” I gulped.

Vintage frames

A few years later I mention to Mr French that I love the perfectly designed Tom Ford glasses that seem to have crossed the bridge of every fashionable nose in the city. He thought I had a point and start talking about less sporty, more stylish options. The Ford model was just a bit too popular. We headed to JLC which specializes in fashion forward models from fantastic designers who are discreet with their logos. Most of their collections are not household names. I tried on a pair of Barton Perreira Centerfolds and it was clear I’d found the perfect fit.

Then I started running. Buying new sunglasses struck me as frivolous, but my mind would wander, telling me that a classic pair of the ubiquitous, yet cool Wayfarer Ray Bans would be ideal. M was in Montreal for the summer. At 13, she had some very trendy blue plastic Ray Ban aviators that she loved. She called from grandmère‘s. “Mom, Mom… we were at Walmart shopping for beach towels when Grandmère found a pair of Wayfarers under the display stand. She said that it was no use turning them in to lost and found, they’d only keep them for themselves.” Yes, grandmère is a parisienne, born and bred. My daughter came home from her holidays with a fantastic souvenir for Mom.

After all that, it is somewhat shocking that I still bought another pair of sunglasses. I was strolling the Marais when a pair of Audreys caught my eye. I had never seen a pair of sunglasses that looked so much like the pair Audrey Hepburn once wore. I went in and learned that I was not far off from the truth. Oliver Goldsmith made glasses for Audrey in the 60’s. Recently, his grand-daughter set-up shop in London and started selling Granddad’s designs to addicts like myself, looking for a great vintage look that never grows old.

THE STORE/ JLC

A Royal Opera

Opera by (electric) candlelight

I’m a writer. I love a good story. The stories in operas are not good; Mimi wasting away of consumption in a Paris garret, Norma climbing the funeral pyre, Carmen’s ranting ex… the ending is always the same. She dies tragically.

Violetta dies tragically (photo courtesy of the Opéra de Versailles)

And to my ears, these gloomy tales us are told by hysterical screechers, their voices grating on my nerves like dry erase on a white board. I spend most of the show wishing they’d stop singing so I could hear the music! There have been some performances I have truly enjoyed, but more for the moment; seeing an outdoor performance of The Magic Flute with the Château de Sceaux as a backdrop (at last, a happy ending… although that high F6 drove me mad for days), or watching Carmen at Christmas, cuddled-up with Mr French over a steaming mug of hot chocolate (spoiler alert; she dies tragically). Someone once told me that it was a question of maturity and that I’d learn to love it when I was older which has only left me dreading the fit of depression I’ll fall into if I ever do start liking opera…

The King's Loge

So it was an incredible act of selflessness when I chose to give Mr French tickets to see La Traviata (you know the ending) at the Royal Opera House of Versailles for Christmas. The Royal Opera House was inaugurated in 1770 as part of the wedding celebrations for Louis XIV and his charming little Austrian, Marie-Antoinette. The Opera house was closed for restoration in 2007 and Mr French has had a hard time getting tickets since its re-opening in 2009. In walks moi. I was ready to make the ultimate sacrifice and attend an opera, even if it meant taking the risk of actually liking it and spiraling into a fit of depression as I ponder my mortality.

Only a few souls were left haunting the château

The sacrifice was large when you consider the sumptuous beauty of the setting; royal seats designed for a king, exquisite chandeliers and ornately painted wood. And we had the entire palace to ourselves, with just 1000 other, well-dressed guests. Versailles at its best. I can’t say that I was suffering.

The show was spectacular, and even if I don’t yet love opera, I do love the music and I could appreciate that the soprano, Nathalie Manfrino, was truly fantastic. The purity of her voice moved even me during her final aria. But I’ll be honest; the best part was spending the two intermissions haunting the wings, watching the sunset over the deserted gardens, and entering the King’s loge, feeling like a princesse as I sat in the royal seats.

MORE INFO/ Opéra Royal de Versailles

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...