Friday@Flore

 

 

 

This week should be titled Friday@Flores, because it sounds so much more espagnol, and last week, while in San Francisco, I stayed in the Spanish speaking part of the city, the Mission District. California started out as part of Mexico, an

d the Mission at Dolores Park was one of the first establishments in the area. The neighbor clings proudly to its hispanic heritage, serving up some of the freshest, most authentic foods, selling wrestling masks, and promoting murals in to the realm of fine art. For All Saint’s Day the Mexican community turns out in force to celebrate Dia de los Muertos.

And in the words of the great Maurice Sendak, “Let the wild rumpus begin

Paris Photo

Today was the opening of Paris Photo, an annual event, that just like FIAC and the Biennial, draws the best galleries from across the globe. The nice thing about this art show is that photos are relatively affordable investments on the international art scene, so the crowd is younger and more light-hearted, making for a more fun, relaxed event.

iconic work by Irving Penn

Photography as a fine art is a fairly difficult concept because of the negatives. For every photo taken, there may be only one print made, or 100,000. Unlike bronzes or lithographs, the production is not controlled, a photographer, galleriest, or any one with access to the negatives can make as many prints as s/he likes and still call them originals. Photos may be printed in a variety of sizes, or at a wide range of time periods and some are developed long after the photographer has gone. Which explains the more accessible prices.

Another complication is more intellectual and relates to modern technology. At what point is a photo no longer a photo, but an illustration or a piece of multi-media? And does the fact that an image has been copied a million times into postcards and Hallmark calendars, add to its value, or deplete it? And what about the accessibility of the process? When we look at most art forms, we may say to ourselves, or the person next to us, “I could do that” while it is rarely true. With contemporary photography, the odds are on your side. Finally, is there, or should there be a significant difference in the value of photos shot as fine art and commercial photography?

All this was filtering through my mind as I attended the opening of the show. And then I started looking at the pictures and other thoughts started popping up, thoughts like; Why are photographers so obsessed with boobs? What is the vagina to penis ration at this show 100:1? Which reminded me of the days when I had my own studio and would go to the lab and the men would stand around talking to each other like it was an old boy’s club and I’d have to clear my throat really loudly to get their attention. All this yin energy made me particularly pleased to see the number of women photographers being represented at this year’s event. Girl power to the 9th degree.

This year’s show has been curated by David Lynch. He has visited all the kiosks, putting a small black sign, signed “vu par David Lynch” on his favorite photos, which makes for a fun way to visit the show. He’ll be there this weekend, participating in various conferences, while photographers like Martin Parr (Friday at 18h) and Jane Evelyn Atwood (Saturday at 16h) will be there signing recent books.

As you stroll the aisles you’ll recognize iconic works by masters like Henri Cartier-Bresson, Irving Penn and Annie Leibovitz. I was particularly enthralled with the collections at the East European galleries like the photos at the Asymetra Gallery (A42) from Warsaw or Vintage (B31) from Budapest.

Paris Photo is at the Grand Palais and runs until Nov 18.

Paris by the Bay

I wrote this for The Girls Guide to Paris in 2010, but it was all still true last week…

French lilacs for a scent of Paris.

When San Francisco grows up, she wants to be French. Yes, I know the city has an extraordinary Italian food, an Asian museum, a historic Jewish community and a rich Latino heritage. But Italians, Asians, Jews and Latinos have all lived in San Francisco since it frst sprouted, while the French, well, the French culture was imported to The City by locals.

Take the building that houses city hall. The 1915 architecture was inspired by Mansart’s Invalides, in Paris. The Legion of Honor, a fine-arts museum that houses a monumental Thinker, by Auguste Rodin, and a series of works by Monet, is a replica of the Palais de la Légion d’Honneur, also in Paris. And if you’ve ever had San Francisco sourdough, you know that it is a cousin to the French pain au levain.

The French feel so at home in SF that there are two private schools where they can ensure a French education for their children. An entire community has grown around the French Even the most traditional raclette can be had at the 24th Street Cheese Shop.American International School on Oak Street, in Hayes Valley, where you can head to Tartine Café Français to savor a proper café crème and a real tartine while French teachers, high-school students and moms chatter away, the melody of the language transporting you back to the Seine, before a stroll past French-inspired art, antique and gift shops on neighboring Hayes Street. San Francisco is an ideal destination for those needing a quick Paris fix without the hassles of trans-Atlantic travel. My favorite Paris-like neighborhood is Noe Valley. A bit off the tourist trail, in the sunniest part of the city, Noe Valley has a cheese monger, 24th Street Cheese Company; a butcher, Drewes Bros., a bistro, Le Zinc; and two bakeries featuring French-style breads, Noe Valley Bakery and La Boulange.

For culture, the Alliance Française is a dynamic center that has a library, holds art exhibitions and offers classes on topics like cinema. You can also find reading material from the Continent downtown at Café de la Presse.

If all of this has you craving a proper confit, there are numerous French restaurants in the city, from the formal and very elegant Fleur de Lys to the casual, incredibly authentic Butler and the Chef. There is a small alley, Belden Place, with so many French restaurants that it has become famous for its Bastille Day block party, where “La Marseillaise” is played so loudly that you think you really are in Paris. Pinch me.

Tartine Café Français  / 244 Gough Street. / (415) 553-4595.

24th Street Cheese Company  / 3893 24th Street / (415) 821-6658.

Pictours Paris

In case you haven’t heard, I just went to the US to visit my beloved daughter, friends and family, and because I’ve probably only said it 60 million times, it has been THREE years. Uh hunh, I’m shouting it out because it was fantastic.

Even more fantastic is that my Dad, the “Grandpa” joined us in Chicago before we headed to SF. The girls and I love his silly jokes, contagious curiosity and outrageous eating habits. This trip, we were also looking forward to giving him his 70th birthday present, which we had prepared in early September. The American cliché, my Dad has everything, which made coming up with a thoughtful gift challenging.

Then inspiration hit… photos! Photos are always appreciated, especially when the grandkids live thousands of miles away and Mom is a photographer. You know the story about the cobbler’s children going barefoot? Well, it’s true. My family rarely receives photos of my kids and hasn’t seen me on film since the arrival of my first grey hair.

Not wanting to be my own worst client, I hired a professional, Lindsey Kent of Pictours Paris. I’d been put in touch with other professionals; a photojournalist from La Liberation, a fashion photographer and an artiste. Their portfolios showed lots of very sad looking Scandanvians. So, I chose Lindsey. Her subjects look happy and I knew that she makes people look their very best because she’d taken a photo of me at a Paris blogger party chez the adorable Un Homme Une Femme and I’d actually looked thin in the shot. Lindsey was in.

Since she generally works with tourists and often with couples, Lindsey specializes in romantic shots in front of Paris’ monuments. This is our home, so we wanted the images to say “Paris” while reflecting our own little slice of the city. After much debate and countless ideas, Mr French suggested we shoot in the metro. Not an easy proposition; the lighting would be dim and keeping other people out of the shot nearly impossible. Lindsey was enthusiastic about the challenge.

Then we wanted to explore the garden where the girls had spent much of their childhoods, getting out their ya-ya’s after school each afternoon. Finally, we’d hit the neighborhood café that had been just downstairs from our first Paris flat, garçon inclus, s’il vous plaît.

For our shoot, we all wore jeans and plain blue tops because mid-tones look best in black and white, and my daughters’ mother can be something of a control freak. Despite the monotone palette, I did let everyone dress in her own style, trying to avoiding the creepy Adamm’s family-style portraits that the Romney clan was so proud of before the elections.

Taking portraits is fascinating. After the shoot, you go back to the lab and start sorting the photos. As you select the best shots, where everyone looks happy and relaxed, a pattern appears and soon you have a very unique, extremely intimate view of the individuals and their relationships. Lindsey nailed it several times; catching M’s exuberance as she spun in the park, E’s radiance at the café and each of our individual styles, as we cross the rue du Bac in full stride, like true Parisienne’s our shoes telling the full story.

My kind of town

Chi-town, the home of the Bears and for now, my (not so) little E. I was last in Chicago on a high school trip some time between puberty and adulthood, so all I remember of the city is how the Sears Tower sways in the wind. This is a normal occurrence and it is really not necessary to go dashing under the nearest table top performing one’s most humiliating ‘duck and cover’ shouting “earthquake”!!!

I also remember Maury Alchek’s really cute butt and a ton of fantastic monumental contemporary art sculptures throughout the city. I remembered a gi-normous Calder structure and a beautifully soft Chagall mural.

This visit, I was in town to explore the University of Chicago and E’s new life. As a Californian, from the new region of a very new country, I was really surprised by all the old, European style architecture. There is a reading room that looks like the dining hall at Hogwart’s and a chapel that is a gothic monument that would do any French city proud. The quad is intimate, surrounded by 19th century brick buildings and during our visit, golden-tinged autumn leaves from the ginko trees littered the manicured lawns. The girls rolled their eyes when I squealed in delight over the sighting of a squirrel, warning me that I’d been in France for much too long. I kept my enthusiasm at the sighting of an American yellow school bus to myself.

I hadn’t taken E to college when she first moved, so this trip was mostly about Target runs and furniture building. We met new friends, tested the cafeteria and spent hours in bookshops. Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture and the campus museums will have to wait for the next visit. But we did make time for what may be the most beautiful library on earth. The Mansueto library sits on a corner, looking like a dew drop from the land of giants. You enter through the main library into a reading room with no walls, no ceiling. Just tables, with perfectly designed chairs and the sky above you. It is inspiration.

While visiting we stayed downtown, where we did have the opportunity to see a bit of the city. We drove by the Calder and Chagall art that are is impressive as I remember, but they have lost their power to astonish ever since the city built ‘The Bean’ which is the  knickname of Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate sculpture in Millennium Park. The bean gets its name from its kidney-like shape. 13 metres high, and 20 metres long, this mirrored structure enthralls and disorients, forcing the viewer to redefine her own reality. It gets even better as you walk under the sculpture and view yourself through the naval. It is Kapoor at his best and art how I love it the most; approachable, playful and an experience that enriches you.

Almost as wonderful as watching your daughter sprout wings and come into her own.

Friday@Flore

I have not posted for the last two days. No warnings, no advance notice, just *poof* I disappeared. There are no official rules in the blogosphere, but I find this to be ultimate un-cool. My apologies to all. Now for the good stuff. I disappeared to Chicago, then San Francisco where I lost myself in a sun-soaked glorious week of friends and family.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Which brings me to this week’s Friday@Flore. Before the Flore became I regular part of my life’s routine, there was the Dolores Café. Located on a busy neighborhood corner, just below Dolores Park with its historic California mission. There are basketball courts, a high-tech kiddie park, rolling green hills and a spectacular view of downtown, the entire scene perfumed with the aromas of medical marijuana.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was not falling into hyperbole when I spoke of a sun-soaked SF visit. Its unusual, but it happened and every local with the slightest excuse to procrastinate had hit the slopes. I often joke that I do not know how to dress, because California has no sense of style, but my afternoon spent following the local street fashion scene proves me woefully wrong.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Couples of every combination were putting on their fashionable best – a relaxed adult grandson with his super cool grandma, LGBT trendsetters, woefully hipster couples, true next generation hippies, and vintage vamps. It was a kaleidoscope of style and design that left me feeling like a kid who had just devoured her favorites from her plastic pumpkin Halloween goodie bag. Well, to be honest, I HAD just devoured some of my childhood, but that’s another adventure…

Quiet

As I was out gift shopping, I spotted something new. When you live in a neighborhood that is several hundred years old, spotted with cafés and shops that have been around just as long, you tend to do that. You notice the new.

On the boulevard St Germain, nestled between les Deux Magots and my beloved Café de Flore, was the iconic bookstore, La Hune, which had been around since the 1950’s. Open Sundays and until midnight, it was key addresses in the local literary scene, not to mention a major pick-up place for those who prefer books to beers. So I was somewhat stunned when I read that it was closing earlier this year. Not only were they closing their doors, but the space was being taken over by LVMH and NOONE seemed particularly upset about it. As an organic eating, leftist militant from a California village that successfully prevented Starbucks from setting up shop, I was actually more than upset, I was devastated. How had I managed to convince myselves (that was a typo, but I love it, so it’s staying) that Parisiennes were any more immune to globalization than the rest of the world? Why weren’t they hitting the streets to protect this icon and their patrimoine?

In the following weeks, the answer became clear. Noone was protesting, because they all knew something I didn’t. La Hune was not closing shop to leave the neighborhood. Quite the opposite, they were reclaiming a larger, brighter space just steps away. And they were giving DIOR the boot, a very elegant leather boot, I imagine, to do so. The tide of culture flooding out international labels. I’m down with that.

Which is how the prime real estate at the corner of the rue St Benoit and boul St Germain became vacant. Managed by LVMH you’d expect them open yet another luxury store, or expand the one next door. Instead, they launched a completely new concept. They opened a literary space.

A literary space? What is a literary space you ask? I had no idea either, and drawn in by the beauty of the space, I went to inquire. The quiet haven of casual elegance, with chocolate colored walls, mid-century designer furniture, and an art exhibit dedicated to Jack Kerouac’s “On the Road” is simply a space to read. Tables are stacked with books, comfortable seats with good lighting are available and people are invited to discover literature. Occasionally, there will be lectures. Nothing is for sale.

L’ecriture est un voyage (writing is a journey) is the current theme, with a collection of memoirs, fiction and adventures from across the globe. If you just happen to fall in love the book you started, and absolutely must know how it ends, you are welcome to walk the 49 steps it takes to get to La Hune to purchase a copy for yourself. Still open Sundays and until midnight.

L’ecriture est un voyage / 170 boul St Germain

La Hune / 18 rue de l’Abbye

 

Gifts

It’s the All Saint’s holiday here in Paris. Until Hollande and his gang came to power, this was a ten day school holiday, but the socialists are not the biggest fans of work, so they’ve now prolonged the vacation to last an entire two weeks. The locals claim this is a secular country, but with two week school breaks every six weeks, I am a serious sceptic. Our kids are out of school for AlL Saint’s Day, Christmas, the beginning of Lent and Easter. Not to mention the handful of long weeks dedicated to ascentions and assumptions. Meanwhile, important exams are held during Ramadan and Yom Kippur.

This year, though, the timing couldn’t be better. E has been at the University of Chicago for exactly five weeks now (not that I’m counting or anything) and it is the University family weekend, so M and are leaving in a jetplane, Chicago bound, then back to our roots in San Francisco. I have not been back in THREE years.

Going home means gift shopping and gift shopping is a challenge with everything so easily available in the US, even Sel de Camargue! The day before departure I braved the schizophrenic weather we have not been enjoying, determined to find gifts not available abroad.

Just a block from chez nous, I pass Puyricard, a very old school, traditional chocolatier from the South of France, who must have a terrible PR team, because this shop gets virtually no anglophone press, despite having excellent chocolate and surprisingly fair prices. I chose a bunch of bars, my personal favorite being the trés original Versinthe, and added some packages of their housemade pate de fruits, guimauves (marshmallows) and candied citrus peels. My friends are going to be getting fat!

Monoprix does some interesting partnerships with worthwhile designers. This season they’ve launched a collection by Antik Batik, so I scored big getting clothes for the little folk I’ll be seeing, while finding a few fun scarves for the women folk, before headong to men’s wear for a few more. This fall they have a gorgeous earthtone scarf with red trim, that looks particularly elegant.

My final stop was Marie Quatrehommes for an entire selection of raw milk cheeses because I’m a mère juive and take a bit too much pleasure out of feeding my brood.

Electric fairies

Mr French is in China, but had been invited to a private evening at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris to see the Michel Werner collection. With reservations for two, I called my friend, Out and About in Paris and asked her to come along. Werner is a German art dealer who has amassed a considerable collection of about 800 works over 50 years, and he has just donated nearly 100 of them to the museum. The press has been raving about this show and I was excited to attend.

The title of the show is, “I sat beauty on my knees… and insulted it”. I am not an art critic and I don’t have a degree in Art History, but I do spend a good amount of my time in art galleries, museums and at exhibitions, so I have developed something of an opinion on the subject and one of the things I get really excited about is good curating.

I love observing how shows are put together and presented to the public. This show, for example is just downstairs from another exhibition, Art During the War. It is a very dark, depressing show that includes tortured illustrations from artists like Breton, Masson, and Ernest, along side war-effected paintings by Matisse and Picasso. In one room there are even works by prisoners, created while they were in the camps. Some survived, many were deported and died. The show brings up all kinds of questions, like why people were creating art when war was happening on the sidewalks below their studios. It is an ode to the human spirit. But it was also immeasurably depressing.

Then you go downstairs to the bright lights and bold colors of the beginning of the Werner show and the clash is so loud you can almost hear cymbals go off in your head. Early on there is a piece by Sigmar Polke which created a light breeze of comic relief, as the artist imitates silkscreen and when looking close up, they appear to be polka dots. When you see wrapping paper that has been signed by the artist Beuys, then framed and sold as art, it is easy to be disparaging after the show you’ve just witnessed upstairs and I came away feeling (among other things) that the curators had really missed the mark this season.

Since this was a soirée privée, we rushed through the rest of the exhibition and headed for a valeur sur, we headed for the champagne. The buffet was set up in the hall with the permanent collection. We soothed our disappointment over the exhibitions by enjoying true masterpieces by artists that included Delaunay, Leger and Braques while savouring bite sized treats of foie gras, lobster and truffles.

After the festivities, I took my date upstairs to see Raoul Dufy’s La Fée Electrique. Commissioned by the artist for the 1937 Paris World’s Fair, this masterpiece created to decorate a hall. You enter into the art, surround yourself in 62 metres dedicated to the celebration of electricity, with paintings that rise10 metres to the ceiling, and as you step forward the light and energy illuminate your very being.

Babette

Flowers for BabetteA few months ago I was walking up the street and I spotted Catherine Deneuve and Gerard Depardieu making a film. Not much later, I saw the film on the silver screen, as part of the celebration for the 150 years of the Bon Marche. Its fun to watch and Catherine truly is the ultimate icon, but at one point she says,

“I don’t like Parisiennes. They’re not nice…. too stressed out. Non, I don’t like Parisiennes.”

Just steps from the Bon Marche, where Catherine makes this bold statement, there is a provençal haven reserved almost exclusively for women. With a chalky blue tiled floor, cornflower walls, dried hydrangias in large vases and old pharmacy bottles on the shelves, stepping into Graine de Beauté feels like stepping out of Paris and back in time.

Translating to “the beauty mark” this salon, specializing in 100% natural hair colors blended specifically for each client, is full of chic Parisiennes; playwrights, business women, full time moms, actresses, politicians all sit quietly side by side. No one is yapping away on their cellphones, or disturbing their neighbor as we each savour the peaceful moment, serenely sipping tea that arrives in an iron Japanese tea pot, happy to de-stress.

Martine comes to work in a black fitted top and an elegant pencil skirt, looking stunning as she prepares to mix magic on to your hair. The whole operation is run by Babette, the very definition of elegance, a trim woman with rich, black hair, who glides between clients, answering the phone and grabbing the occasional handful of raw almonds or hazelnuts from the two jars that stand near the entrance.

The reason that no one takes out their cellphones is Babette. Like a strict school teacher, she is able to make it clear this will not be tolerated before the question is even asked. She dispenses more than beauty advice; she reads scalps and gives valuable life lessons as she guides women to look their very best and take care of themselves from the inside out. Her clients adore her.

A few weeks ago Babette was diagnosed with cancer. She has had the lump removed and the prognosis is good. As she recuperates it is clear how very much her clients and employees are under her spell. The staff is working double time so they can satisfy her clients, while customers offer to blow dry their own hair, and even more exceptionally, walk out of the salon with wet hair.

Seeing a Parisienne on the streets with wet hair is about as common as seeing a teen without a cellphone. Nobody asks these women to chip in and not everyone is willing to head out to the office with frizz in their future, but seeing everyone take the initiative yesterday made me wish Mlle Deneuve would pop in and see just how very wonderful Parisiennes can be.

Graine de Beauté / 60 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6e / 0145 44 25 13

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