Luxury shopping

Meet über-geek; high school speech and debate club treasurer, reading Shakespeare for pleasure and working in the accounts receivable department of a data storage company as an after school job. I was socially awkward, so I spent my free time babysitting. Socially awkward, but rich for a 17 year old and I spent every last centime on designer clothing! It made absolutely no sense, I didn’t have a social life, so I never had any where to wear the clothing, but I was addicted. Tragically, I could be spotted dressed in a purple Norma Kamali, heavily shoulder padded cotton coat over a red and fuschia Nicole Miller silk dress, clodding along in a pair of heels through a public high school in the American suburbs. Wonder why I was the social equivalent of the bubonic plague?

In 1995 my fashion collection met a sudden and unexpected death; well-intentioned cleaning lady meets black suede, red cashmere, a lot of silk and introduces them to a washing machine. Clataclysmic. But life was happening; I had preschool tuition to pay,  a mortgage to worry about and there was just no longer any room in my life for designer duds. Besides, I had grown up enough to accept the fact that I was never going to have a lifestyle that befit that kind of clothing. Especially not in San Francisco where my friends were “dressed up” if they deigned to put on long pants. I still loved great design and would haunt Jeremy’s for impressive bargains on fantastic finds, but I had run out of steam.

When I moved to Paris, I would look intently out the bus window as it headed down the avenue Montaigne, much like a child gazing longingly into a candy shop. Those boutiques were beyond my means, and for a moment, they were beyond my imagination.

Several years ago, we had a very special party to attend back in the US. I had lost 20lbs since moving to Paris, nothing I owned fit me and I wanted to look particularly fantastic (no, this was not my high school reunion); clearly I needed a new dress. It was time to spoil myself and I was determined to find something very, very special. After nearly a decade of good behaviour, I wanted to go on a serious shopping trip. The thought terrified me.

In the US they have those big, friendly, anonymous department stores that were easy to enter and browse. Going into the designer section was as easy as stepping on to the plush carpet. No streets to cross and no doors to open. In Paris the shops are boutiques; tiny and intimate. I did not believe for one moment that I would be welcome in a designer store. And while there are also department stores, I wanted a little piece of the 1950’s haute couture dream. To spy the Dior staircase and imagine Mademoiselle just upstairs on the rue Cambron.

I called a friend for a bit of support. She was surprised to learn of my timidity. A women who willingly, happily backpacked alone for three months through Africa was intimidated by a luxury boutique? This she had to see. We were out the door before I could say LVMH. First stop, Versace, where the salesman greeted us with a smile and offered us a glass of champagne. Seriously, me in my 20$ Costco Calvin Kleins, sipping champagne on the rue St Honoré! We continued on to Chanel, Chloé, and Celine, before hitting the rest of the alphabet. In every shop the staff was not just helpful, but warm and welcoming. It was a pleasure. In the end I returned home empty handed and visited a tailor for the serious over-haul of a lovely, ivory colored Armani dress with graduated red beading and turquoise stone trim I had found at Jeremy’s for 95$. I settled on silk stockings with a seam up the back to give the look a Parisian twist, wore red CFMs with 4″ high heels and I was ready for the ball.

I was also cured. I no longer stand drooling puddles of longing outside of the boutiques, but enter boldly, admiring the craftsmanship, inspecting the designs and fondling the fabrics. It is a wonderful sensation, a sensation I dare you to share if you have been at all longing, but too intimidated to open the door.

Friday@Flore

Immelda, take note… its shoe time!!! It has been a weird, wet spring and women seem to have had enough of their Hunter or Aigle rainboots, opting for the classic ballerinas shoes, trendy boots and even heels. Not practical choices, but sense when is fashion about being practical? In France there is a rule about spring fashion, “au mois de mai, fait ce qui te plaît….”*

Wedgies are back, and this time they are in the style of running shoes, or ballet slippers, adding a bit of chic to the sporty look and giving you an elegant, long legged silhouette while looking considerably less painful than your traditional, leather soled heels.

I was loving the ballet slippers with a twist. They were by far the most popular shoe choice last Friday, I edited it down to two pairs I particularly loved, which just happen to show off two of the most popular trends in shops today.

Ankle boots are in, and the cowboy look seems to have come along for the ride. Went to the very fashionable Merci boutique the very next day and there were feathered jewelry, braided belts and fringed tops for the total look.

My step-daughter is the ultimate fashionista and just last week she started talking about the kilim boots that were going to be the next “must” have. It was not much of a surprise, then, when I spotted two pairs of boots that looked very close to what she’d shown me.

Out last Mademoiselle seems to be an incurable optimist with those melt in the rain espadrille platform sandals that were big (no pun intended) last summer, but if the shop windows are any indication, they are less of a fad this year.

Cafe de Flore

* in the month of May, wear whatever strikes your fancy…

 

Still out…

After running a way to shoot some graffiti, it was hard to imagine heading home. Paris has been grey out lately. Oppressively grey, with lots of rain, so I am in desperately need of a holiday. Which I don’t deserve, because I don’t have a real job. So I stay in Paris and pretend.

The girls and I headed south from rue Denoyez , which took us straight  the Belleville Market. Talk about culture shock, instead of stinky Paris metro, the air was heavy with fresh mint and coriander. traces of exotic spices wafted pass was we got caught up in a press of humanity.

Once we were finally out of the market, a gentleman pushed a political tract into my hand. I thanked him, explaining that I had already decided.

“Non, this is for Algeria.” he informed me.

I looked him square in the eyes, he looked me straight in the eyes. I could see the gears in his brain registering  that I am not Algerian and probably not even French. We laughed and my friend piped up, “Votay…. Obama.” as we walked away with a wave.

Down the street, and down some more. Before I knew it, things were starting to look familiar. Wait a minute… I knew where we were. This was the über trendy, almost has-been Oberkampf area. Wahoo. It is pathetic how rarely I get out to really explore the city now that I live here. I hadn’t been in this part of town, in ages, and I had never been with a local, so I didn’t know the hotspot to choose for lunch.

Avoiding the question altogether, I headed up a private road into a private housing area where lilac bushes and wisteria were in full bloom. Workers ateliers had clearly been transformed into private homes, artist studios and the offices for OXFAM. I spent ages in there, taking photos and trying hard not to be too much of a voyeur.

Back on Oberkampf,  we headed to Café Charbon. The place is a cliché for the neighborhood; very ‘arty’ Parisienne moms head to this address for a morning coffee after dropping their kids off at la créche and they return later that evening for a cocktail with Monsieur. The food was seriously good for café fare, with a courgette (zucchini or marrow, depending on where you’re from) flan that was particularly noteworthy and a cheap menu that include a café gourmand.

After lunch I discovered the Made by MOI boutique with their Nan and Nin handbags. I love these bags. They are designed by two sisters with a Maman and a Papa in the leather business, making them born professionals. Their bags feature original, very stylish designs that are easy to wear and do not cost an average man’s monthly salary. Minutes later I was swept away by the fragrance coming from the utterly charming florist next door, L’Arrosoir. My adventure ended as it had begun, on a very fragrant note.

Nan and Nin

Your new summer tote

When I first noticed the Vanessa Bruno tote, it was not because I had a great love of fashion, but because it was literally everywhere. It would have been hard to miss it. The following season there was a scarf that had a similar following (knit with thin, bright-colored stripes on a dark grey background) and there have since been many more fashion fads.

Last month I saw a new fad emerging. It is a lovely, duo-toned leather tote, with a gold zipper that runs horizontally, about 2/3s down the bag and has two rather large, leather tassels. The faux-leather is often brightly colored in green, salmon or yellow jewels tones, sometimes balanced with a sedate beige and it is occasionally stamped with a faux animal print, imitating croc or snake skin.

The first time I saw this bag I was on the rue de Babylone, just steps from my very first fashion fad spotting, so perhaps it was the universe telling me something. I doubt it. The bag I spotted was in a gorgeous green that really caught my eye. I thought it was a very expensive designer bag. But, I was seeing it everywhere and on everyone of all ages, which is usually a sign that it is reasonably affordable. Then I started seeing it in shop windows, and sure enough, at 69€, the bag is several generations removed from a runway budget. At that price, it is clearly not leather and I wanted to know more. After visiting three or four shops and getting no answers, helpful sales girl reluctantly informed me that the bags are a crafty restyling (therefore legal) of a very expensive and very popular Celine bag.

Now, I know the argument, who wants fake, when you can have the real deal? Clearly the hundreds of parisennes I see toting this tote. Because, you see, as much as they love fashion parisiennes are a pragmatic lot and unless they are fabulously wealthy, they are not likely to invest in a luxurious, yet trendy, leather bag that they’d then be traipsing through a sandy beach and it likely to be a has been within the next 3 years. A faux-leather, not-quite-fake bag is good enough for a passing summer fancy.

I bet that you are all dying to know where you can get yours. I see them everywhere, but at this address near the Bon Marché they have the faux version, as well as more expensive ones in leather and a very helpful young sales lady who was willing to tell the truth. Happy shopping!

Basic Bazaar

The mailing list

Our first apartment in Paris, once we finally immigrated here, was on the rue de Babylone, exactly across the street from the men’s wear department at the Bon Marché. Trés chic, n’est-ce pas?

Not that it meant anything to me. I was 20 lbs too heavy, did not own a bra and hadn’t shaved anything in decades. I was a granola eating, barely-recovered vegetarian, native Californian. The only shopping I got excited about was the organic farmer’s market on the boulevard Raspail every Sunday. I’d spend serious amounts of time explaining to the market vendors that, non, I really did not want an extra bag to separate my tomatoes from my asparagus, they could co-habitate quite happily for the 100 metres it would take to get to my front door, but the planet wouldn’t be in such great shape if everyone took a bag for each fruit they purchased. I’d get the gallic shrug and head home in my Birkenstocks.

Then one fine, blossom blooming, gorgeous spring day, the very first of the season, I opened the front door to our flat and I saw that nearly ever Parisenne, chic or otherwise, was carrying the same handbag. I am not exaggerating. Sequined bags going past to my right, sequined bags going by to my left, sequined bags going down into the Metro, sequined bags perched on the rattan café stools at my feet, sequined bags balanced on park benches directly across the street. Clearly, everyone had received a fashion alert in the night, telling them what to wear for the first warm day of the season, and I had not been on the mailing list! I felt so left out. But, like, really. I still feel the sting today. Why wasn’t I on the mailing list?

The bag was just a simple canvas tote, with sequin trim across the handles and around the base and it came in a multitude of colors. The funny thing is, until then I had never wanted to have something everyone else has and I don’t particularly like sequins, although they are starting to grow on me. I felt left out, just the same.

It didn’t take me long to learn (I lived across the street from the Bon Marché, after all) that the bag is a Vanessa Bruno, by the eponymous designer. It was the ‘it’ bag of the season and many seasons there after. In fact, you still see the same design everywhere, ten years later. One of the great things about the Vanessa Bruno tote is that it is relatively affordable for an ‘it’ bag, usually available for under 100€. It is very light, and easy to wear, making it a favorite with local high school students, their Moms, their Grandmothers and every other woman who has ever seen one.

Thanks to the Paris lifestyle, which requires walking kilometres and kilometres until your feet crumble and you must rush off for a pedicure, I lost those surplus kilos. Peer pressure from my Parisiennes had me waxing in a matter of months and I now have a lovely collection of French lingerie. I’ve taken my blinders off and allow myself to admire fine fashion, even spoiling myself with an occasional shopping trip during les soldes, but I never got a Vanessa Bruno tote. And I learned that there is no mailing list. There is Telerama, ELLE and Garance Doré, which local fashionistas follow like a diamond cutter sharpens his tools. And there are my Parisiennes who keep me on their list, which is all I really need.

Vanessa Bruno

 

A First Date

Meetic Sign

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was in something in a tizzy over my first, going beyond the café, date. This wasn’t my first date with a Frenchman, in fact I’ve still never dated an American. But, this was my first date in 20 years!!! Was it really like riding a bicycle? Would I fall off? I had no idea, but I felt ready to find out.

Before heading out, I turned to My Parisiennes for advice. I was a bit wary of les filles around this time, because they had set me up on coffee dates with some of the wildest guys, occasionally knowing that the men were married! “Well, its not like he is in love with his wife, besides you never said you wouldn’t date a married man.” I learned to be very clear with my friends about what I was looking for AND what I was avoiding like a case of rickettsia (been there, done that… Africa 1993).

But these women were my friends and they provided some really fantastic advice about what to wear. Hands down, the best suggestion was to wear my favorite, most comfortable clothing that made me feel the most self-assured and at ease, ensuring I’d feel the most like myself. I chose a pair jeans with a low cut brown wool Burberry blazer that I’d had in my closet for ages.They reminded me that shoes are crucial in France. Even busy CEOs take a moment to bend down and shine their shoes before heading out the door each morning, while placement firms have been known to take potential candidates on shopping excursions for new shoes before an interview. It would have to be heels. Sexy ones that had been shined recently.

Love, by YSL

Then for that extra bit of confidence, they told me, go out and buy yourself some really, hot, sexy lingerie that you love. It will give you a secret that adds some mystery to the evening. If you’d like a second date, keep those panties to yourself and wait for another night before unveiling your new look. Of course, if one date is enough, remember to play safe.

Since I was dating men I had met online, they were not coming to pick me up at my front door. I was in no hurry to give out my home address. I headed out the door alone. Nervous, but confident with my new best friend, Chantal Thomass at my side.

Chantal Thomass

Le cadeau

Last Monday, while scrambling around in search of a Paris bar for E’s (aka dear daughter) surprise birthday party, I was still trying to figure out what to get her for a gift. I am a badge holding member of “its the thought that counts” club. Unfortunately, those thoughts don’t always coincide perfectly with birthdays and major holidays. I mess up. I also prefer giving experiences rather than material goods, but that is covered with two tickets to sit in one of those oh-so-romantic, red brocade-lined loges to watch Robbins/Ek at the Opera Garnier later in the week.

The gift solution had been eluding me for months. My Parisiennes were beginning to think I was a bit nuts. Gift giving and birthdays are not a major event here, where Martha is an anonymous nobody and Goop is not yet taunting us with our inadequacies.

I was being Américaine, they warned.

Just get her a blazer, they advised.

Then, the told me about their own childhood gifts… flatware. I can just imagine trying that with a teenager today, “Yes darling, I’ve purchased you a fork. Isn’t that exciting? Mommy’s so thrilled! By the time you get married you’ll have a whole set of sterling flatware for your chéri, and the little ones to follow!” No wonder these women need to smoke!

Deciding they were right, and hoping to put my brain waves to better use, I went to the Bon Marche and checked out the Perle de Lune jewelry counter. I love their casual, elegant style, inspired by India, yet perfectly suited to life in Paris. They use quality stones, with intense colors and cuts that add sparkle, without bling. I quickly found a simple, elegant bracelet, for just over 100€. 18k gold, with intensely colored blue topaz, it is perfectly unique, just like E.

Perle de Lune is available at these Paris stores;  Le Bon Marche, Galeries Lafayette, Franck et Fils, Diamantissimo

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