Date Night // Au Coin Pasteur

Screen shot 2013-12-18 at 11.35.28 AM“Let’s eat here.” Mr French stopped in mid step, pointing toward a rather non-descript Parisian café.

“But we’re just a block from Ty Breizh. They’ve got galettes with wild mushrooms this time of year. And here? This place looks so touristy.”

Screen shot 2013-12-18 at 11.35.52 AM“There are no tourists around here.” replied the Frenchman.

After 5 years together, I have learned to understand Mr French speak. “That will be complicated” means “no“. “Aren’t you happy I’m helping you do the dishes?” means, “Wow. How do I get away with doing so little around the house?” and saying “There are no tourists around here” when we were just 50 metres from the Gare Montparnasse meant he wasn’t in the mood for crèpes and really, really wanted to try this place. His next comment only confirmed my interpretation.

Screen shot 2013-12-18 at 11.35.06 AM“Look, they have house made pot au feu.”

I sighed my way through the front door as Mr French asked for a table in the sunlight, which flooded much of the front dining area. Once seated I started looking over the menu, already convinced I was going to hate the place. But, wait, what were the asterisks by most of the dishes listed? Scanning down I read, “these dishes were prepared in-house, using only fresh ingredients”. My mood changed in an instant. Here was a place that respected quality. We were in for a decent meal after all.

Looking around with new respect, I was suddenly charmed by the old-fashioned scale filled with Carabar candies, the cheerful decor and the friendly wait staff. We were there for the pot au feu, so it seemed churlish to order anything else. It arrived at our table in a large copper pot, with a plate of crisp pickles and genuine sea salt. As Mr French had suspected it was memorably delicious, the vegetables cooked so that they remained firm and flavourful, the meat melt-in-your-mouth succulent.

Screen shot 2013-12-18 at 11.34.42 AMThe food was so good, I decided it was worth the calories to try their house made chocolate mousse. I was not disappointed. This is Parisian dining as we like it; no super star chef, no month-long waiting list and a predominantly local crowd going out for food that is as delightful as the people at your table without being over worked or fussy. Miam.

 

The gift

Screen shot 2013-12-13 at 8.18.17 PMAnd yes, when there is a birthday, there is often a gift. And this year I was particularly blessed.

It began several months ago when an editor from Afar magazine contacted me asking if I’d be interested in doing a mini guide to Paris for their online magazine. I have been courting Afar for ages, but they tend to hire writers who are already working for magazines like The New Yorker. I was not exactly on their radar. And then **blip** suddenly I was. And I know, its merely a blip, I have not yet set off any alarms and my words are not yet going out in print, but the traffic controllers seem to have seen that I’m in their airspace and they gave me a job to do…

And it was a real job. I was assigned to write about the entire city, giving readers a true sense of place, while mentioning all the usual suspects and some great off the beaten path alternatives. All this with a very strict limit of words per subject. All of Paris in the equivalent of about 7 blog posts!

I had two weeks to play with sentences; juggle adjectives, cut out nouns, add adverbs and find the right balance that would make readers want to book their next trip for Paris. I would arise early every morning and most mornings I’d even skip the gym so that I could run directly to the Room of my own on the rue des Beaux Arts, sit on the couch and start to type, checking info here, Google details there and constantly referring to a much longer guide I’d written for another client earlier in the year. I rarely remembered to eat lunch before 15h, when I’d look up from my screen, wondering why my hands were shaking, my head heavy and my stomach in knots. After a quick bite, I’d return to my spot and continue until dinner time when a desperate call from Em would call me home to make dinner.

I finished around the first of the month and sent it all in, one day before deadline. Several days later I received an email requesting a few edits and on my birthday, the perfect present arrived… an email stating the work was “excellent”.

The guide has yet to be published, but you can read the majority of the content in the Highlights here.

More birthday celebrations

Screen shot 2013-12-13 at 10.35.11 AMA few weeks ago I got an email from the Royal Monceau hotel, one of my favorite hotels in Paris.  I first got to know the Royal Monceau when I was testing spas last winter and it quickly became my favorite hotel in Paris. I am not sure what make s the place so special to me. The clean, modern decor is absolutely forgettable, but there is something in the air… perhaps it is their fine attention to detail, serving coffee in cups I’d love to have in my home… or the art book shop with the best (and most expensive) Screen shot 2013-12-13 at 10.34.53 AMsouvenirs of Paris… and certainly it must have something to do with the friendly staff. They even have a weekly newsletter called Art for Breakfast that fills me in on the highlights of the week’s local art scene. AND they happen to have the best spa in Paris with a somewhat serious lap pool!

Needless to say, I was intrigued when I learned they had a private movie theater that they would be opening to the public for semi-private screenings for a Sunday Night film club, to be enjoyed with a glass of champagne (or gourmet fruit juices) and Pierre Hermé popcorn. It seemed like a great story to cover, so I called asking for a press visit and was invited, with a guest last Sunday.

Screen shot 2013-12-13 at 10.35.40 AMMr French would be in China and I knew I’d be busy Monday night, so this seemed like the perfect way to celebrate my birthday with Em. The only hiccup with the movie night is that they can not guarantee the film you’ll be seeing until a few days before the event, so I had it in my mind we’d be seeing Chocolat, as announced in their program, but our invitation informed us we’d be spending the night with Bond in Skyfall. Not that I was disappointed about an evening watching Daniel Craig, but y mid took a few moments to make the leap from lazily romantic, provencial France, to sexy, hot Shanghai.

Due to a lingering good bye kiss with Mr French, holiday traffic jams and those horrible people who are still demonstrating against gay marriage, we arrived only a few minutes before the show. Our coats were whisked off our shoulders and we were shown to the ticket booth before being escorted to the drinks bar where a man with a wicker basket offered us sweet or savory popcorn.

Screen shot 2013-12-13 at 10.35.23 AMThe theater is large, seating about 100, with huge, leather arm chairs and tables that fold up to hold your refreshments. Em and I immediately felt like we were in our living room and sprawled out, taking off our shoes and even putting our stocking feet on the neighboring chairs for a comfortable evening in front of the big screen.

A film at the Royal Monceau is 40€. A film on the nearby Champs Elysée is 12€ and a glass of champagne in a luxury hotel is 20€, so would the splurge be worth it? I think its a great place for a cosy date on a freezing winter night, or a great option for getting the entire family out of the house. There is something to be said about feeling like you’re in the comfort of your home without the isolation of it. There is also the pleasure of being out in public while escaping the intense, Parisian cinema crowd.

The Royal Monceau offers a second option, even more romantic option, the Dinner Royale, which for 95€ includes the champagne cinema experience followed by a 2 course meal at the Michelin starred La Cuisine restaurant and I’m thinking that this maybe what we do around Valentine’s day season, which we never celebrate officially, but I like to honor in some little way, getting my girlie on… In the meantime I had a wonderful birthday evening with my dear darling Em who charmed my socks off by dressing up for the evening and then following me on a mad-capped adventure to buy an illegal laser beam (coveted cat toy) from the Africans at Trocadero, as the police looked on, a pickpocket gypsy made an pathetic attempt at thievery and an Eastern European souvenir salesman lent a helping hand.

 

 

 

My happy, happy birthday celebration

Screen shot 2013-12-11 at 3.32.30 PMYou may have read on these pages that every now and again, I hold a literary salon in my home, inviting published authors to come read to us from their work and talk about their journey in becoming an author. The evenings have started to build a reputation for themselves, drawing 25-30 people into my home on a Monday night. Fun, happy people who are thrilled to stay and chat. It is wonderful, and it is my dream come true, but I don’t live alone. I live with a man who starts his day at 6am.

Last month I learned that Mr French would be out of town the second week of December. It was the first time I’ve ever seen the upside to his business trips. I’d host a words&wine evening chez nous!

I looked at the calendar and my eyes popped wide when I realized that the second Monday in December happened to be my birthday. Not only would I get to have my literary salon, but I’d be having an unBirthday party, as well!

Screen shot 2013-12-11 at 3.33.34 PMThe last time I threw myself and unBirthday party it was for my 40th birthday. Everyone in the house thought they had been invited to celebrate my becoming a French citizen. We ate foie gras and oysters, sipped champagne and danced into the wee hours. Our neighbor, the gracefully elegant French author Saphia Azzedine showed up with her then boyfriend, Jamel Debbouze, who, at the time, was the most popular comedian in the country. Their presence catapulted me into stardom with our French friends who were suddenly very impressed with my “connections” and on Monday morning I was suddenly the “cool” Mom waiting to pick up her kids in front of the public school.

This year was just as thrilling. Our original author had to drop out at the last minute, due to a passport gone awol. With just 24 hours notice, my friends and rockstar authors, Jenna Warnecke and Lisa Czarina Michaud agreed to step in and save the evening. People were impressed. Not only did could I plan a literary salon, but like a famous baseball coach, I hadScreen shot 2013-12-11 at 3.33.08 PM a ready stable of pinch hitters.

Jenna is the author of the practical blog, Paris Cheapskate.She has straight, shoulder length hair, and wears dark glass that give her a strict librarian look that contrats beautifully with the shocking reds of her wardrobe. You know this girl has depth before she has ever spoken a word.

In someways, Lisa is her direct opposite, with sensually full Italian hair, an irrepressible smile and so much coquine seasoning, it has become her nickname and the force behind her blog, EllaCoquine, Tales from a Chambre de Bonne.

Both girls wow-ed the crowd, each in her own, very unique way. And as a little cherry on the whipped cream of this very perfect birthday celebration, Em ratted me out, announcing that it was my birthday and Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris led them in a round of the Birthday song. It was at this moment, my face turning the color of an heirloom tomato, that I realized I have not had a group of people sing happy birthday to me since I was 15 years old and my mother organized a 7am surprise birthday breakfast in my bedroom.

I could not have wished for a greater birthday present.  If you’d like read more about the evening and what our two authors had to say, please join me on the words&wine blog.

 

 

Hanukkah: the 8th night

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Nothing is better over the holidays than a great story:

Once upon a time, in Paris there were two Parisiennes who were not quite like other Parisiennes. They did things like dye their hair blue and were perhaps called eccentric by their neighbors. The girls did not know that there was someone else out there very much like them in the world. And then one of the girl’s brothers met the other girl and knew right way that he had found one of his sister’s kindred spirits. He insisted they meet.

Over time, they began to see that he had a point, and they started collaborating together until one day, they designed a vase, the April Vase and they liked it very much. They liked it so much, they decided to make more and try and sell them. Some people loved them, too. Others were less enthusiastic, but the girls kept making their vases.

Screen shot 2013-12-06 at 6.02.27 PMThen, one day, a man with a gallery decided he really liked those vases, too and he was going to feature them in his design shop. They were a smashing success, taking the city by storm. The girls were able to start designing other vases, and design objects, and after 20 years of collaboration, they finally opened a store together. And they did it all while traveling the world and keeping their hair blue!

Tsé&Tsé vases are a Parisian classic. They dress up wild flowers, dress down exotic blooms. You can pull out a tube, to have only a few, or line ’em up for an impressive display. And they give your partner, or yourself, the perfect inspiration to fill the house with blooms, making it a gift that keeps on giving through out the year.

Happy Holidays one and all.

Hanukkah: the 7th night

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I recently went to a nutritionist who heard 15 minutes of my lifestyle (the 20km de Paris, my Californian love for eating anything green), saw that I was 30% fat and declared, “Madame, you are seriously dehydrated.” He ordered me to drink 2 litres of water a day et voilà I was cured. It feels like magic.

Drinking water is important for everyone, but buying it in those plastic bottles is pretty hard on the environment and the jury is starting to debate if it’s so great for our health, so I’ve taken to drinking Eau de Seine!!!

The Mairie de Paris feels the same way about the importance of staying hydrated and keeping it local, so they have deigned these fun carafés so that visitors can feel like they’re getting a bit of Paris in their daily intake. And just last week, they made it even easier by opening their own eBoutique so that tourists who are no longer touring can still purchase some très Parisian holiday gifts for the Paris-ophiles in their life. The gifts range from Art books featuring recent exhibitions to Mariages Frères teas and include the Senat chairs from the Luxembourg gardens available in every color EXCEPT Luxembourg green. I’m guessing that’s for security reasons! And naturally, the Eau de Paris water carafés. So cheers, bottoms up and santé for a healthy, happy holiday season!

 

 

Hanukkah: the 6th night

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Talking about all those films yesterday had me humming to Les Parapluies de Cherbourg, the radiant smile of Catherine Deneuve like a benign Cheshire Cat in my mind. La grande dame was in another film recently, the light comedy, Les Potiches, which has he becoming the CEO of an umbrella factory. It’s a French thing, this obsession with umbrellas, probably directly related to the copious amounts of rain that fall from the heavens every year. Or perhaps its because in this style obsessed country, its just one more accessory to get excited over. One of the rare ones that men can enjoy as much as their Parisiennes.

For the ultimate in Haute Couture umbrellas, Heurault is the place to go. Each piece made with exotic handles and hand selected fabrics by artisans right here in their Paris atelier. The umbrellas are exquisite. They are also very expensive. Well beyond my mortal means, especially when the people I gift have a tendency to loose things. It would be a tragedy to loose one of these umbrellas, and nobody in my life needs that kind of stress right now.

Screen shot 2013-12-04 at 9.23.06 AMIts hard to follow in those footsteps, but for a practical, everyday option, the folks at the Piganiol umbrella factory have been protecting the French from the rain since 1884, making solid, quality products that they stand behind. When the leash on my foldable Piganiol came undone, they told me to send it in and they’d fix it for free, which the did in a matter of weeks, sending it back to me by La Poste at their expense. Even more unbelievable… they offered to repair my umbrella when the pole was bent in the closed doors of a moving bus headed for the Ecole Militaire. 100% my fault, or rather Em’s, but certainly not theirs.

The short, wide form of the foldable version fits easily into most handbags, yet opens wide enough to cover a couple walking arm and arm along the streets, admiring the holidays lights in Paris, London, or your home town.

Hanukkah: the 5th night

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Make ’em laugh with a brilliant French comedy. Mon Onlce de Jaques Tati is so good its still on the shelves of the dvd department at the FNAC, while Tatie Danielle had me rolling in off the living room couch, tears rolling down me cheeks. I know that there is an amazing joke in this recommendation, what with Tati versus Tatie (granny) versus Oncle, but my mind is too dulled from the laughter to figure it out just now.

Screen shot 2013-12-03 at 6.32.42 PMOther great French comedies include Rabbi Jacob, Bienvenue Chez le Chtis, and The Closet. I once had the honor of living a real life version of a French comedy, The Diner des Cons in which a group of sophisticated Parisians holds a monthly contest to see who can invite the biggest looser to dinner. And no, I was not the sophisticated Parisian doing the inviting. I was the invitee and I guess our hostess thought I was some kind of uneducated mouton from a distant back water that it would entertaining to have me around. I sat at the over stuffed, formal dinner table that evening, looking at the dozens of 19th century oil paintings of curvy nudes feeling like my spaceship had taken a wrong turn some time after Saturn. I was definitely on the wrong planet! I walked home that night, laughing at French humor, a great feeling and even better when you can share it someone for the holidays.

Do you have a favorite French comedy I have forgotten from the list? I’m looking for suggestions to get me through the holidays with a smile!!!

Hanukkah: the 4th night

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I have no idea how it is in the rest of the world, but growing up in California involves a great deal of time spent in one’s bare feet. In my world slippers were for pipe smoking Dads on the television. Guys with names like Ward or Darren. So it came something as a total shock to me when I moved to Montréal and discovered the sensation of cold feet. It was a traumatising thing for me, that bone chilling cold and it took me ages to discover that bare feet were no longer a option. I’d have to cover my rather sensitive, allergic to anything but Birkenstocks feet, or turn blue. It was a tough call. Eventually, I caved and started wearing socks around the house.

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It was the perfect solution for a foot loose career girl who rarely spent more than an hour or two a day in her own home. That was 20 years ago. I now find myself spending entire days without being properly shod and after last winter spent eating holes into one pair of socks after the other, I realized it was time to go retro and get some proper slippers.

Cruising the web, I ran into this fun pair from Le Slip Français. “Slip” is French for underwear, and this place has lots of cute cotton stuff in the traditional French sailor stripes. At some point they started selling espadrilles, which must have led to these slippers, or perhaps the slippers came first. Who knows? What I do know is that the style is fresh, and fun and easy to wear and I can’t wait until my slippers show up at my door next week. Hopefully delivered by the extremely attractive model showing off the underwear on the home page. Its all reasonably priced and Made In France, well, except for the model. I have no idea where he was made.

Hanukkah: the 3rd night

Screen shot 2013-12-02 at 10.34.19 AMWell, it’s really the 6th night tonight, but in the virtual world we can stop time like that. For the 3rd Perfectly Parisian Present, I’ve recently fallen under the spell of the shop selling figurines are the Palais Royale. Mr French and I have strolled by there a 100 times, on our way to the Comédie Française or for a stroll in the gardens of for little lèche vitrine activity at Didier Ludot’s Little Black Dress shop. When we’d pass by Les Drapeaux de France boutique and Mr French would slow down to look at all the figurines as I’d rush him along muttering “dust collectors” and “tourist trap” with him replying, “You’re a woman, you wouldn’t understand.”

Screen shot 2013-12-02 at 10.49.22 AMThe last time we walked past it was bitterly cold outside and I could tell there would be no hurrying Mr French, so I popped inside for some warmth. As I opened the glass door a man rushed out of a side door, nearly knocking me over. He immediately struck me as the Absent Minded Professor type. A man so passionate about what he does, he sometimes forgets about the rest of the world. The warm wooden floor was worn from decades of people lingering to admire the cluttered glass cases filled with familiar comic book characters, Christmas scenes, African safari animals and tin soldiers representing the armys of Europe. The boutique went from Tourist Trap to Sanctuary in my imagination and I started thinking in hushed tones.

Screen shot 2013-12-02 at 10.42.08 AMAnd then I saw her. Alice, dueling it out with the Jabberwocky. And yelling at the Queen. There was the Mad Hatter, the Caterpillar, Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dum, and a whole host of other characters from Wonderland, each one so beautifully painted I wanted to reach out and touch them. Mme Absent Minded was standing just behind me in the narrow space. I turned and started to ask about these flat tin (plat d’etain) objects in my best art gallery voice.

Mme turned to me brusquely, replying in a loud, exuberant voice that brought me back to reality reminding me that these are toys, meant to bring joy to children of all ages. I learned that most of what they have is made in Europe and almost all of it painted in France by a handful of artists, each with their own specialty. There is a Christmas lady, and several who only work on the soldiers. The shop also carries some more mass market products, but they are slowly phasing out their commercial “made in China” stock. Mme is just as passionate as Monsieur, who had met Mr French and the two of them were in a corner going into ecstasies over a series of trees.

I left with a small package in my hand, a new appreciation for tin soldiers and a bit of childish delight in my heart. I can’t imagine a better holiday gift than a bit of the youthful joy that surges up when looking at one of their unique miniatures.

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