Happy Birthday!!!

Just last month I wrote about my Dad and how very, very fortunate I am to have a father like him. An amazingly kind, gentle man.

My Dad did not got to a famous university. He had to work. And work he did, doing everything he could to provide the best possible education for his children so that they could do what ever they chose to do in life. From my earliest childhood memories, I remember him teaching me the importance of a good education. I remember being about five and throwing a Dr Seuss book across my room in a nasty snit. My Dad made me pick up the book and apologize to it before I put it back in my bookshelf. Books were knowledge and you absolutely must respect knowledge.

When I was a little girl, my Dad would take out the painted white baseboards in our houses and put in beautiful oak ones he had prepared. He made our coffee table and he made my mother the most elegant jewelery box that I still use every day.

He would spend entire weekends making pickles and canning spaghetti sauces, teaching the importance of natural, whole foods that are not loaded with preservatives.

When he wasn’t working, or in his shop, he’d be out in his garden, sometimes forcing us to join him in pruning, clipping, weeding, mowing. He has finally retired, but he still gardens, growing beautiful flowers and wonderful fruits and vegetables to enjoy.

When my girls were newly born he went out of his way to bring me cases of strawberries and dungeness crab salad from Swann’s in San Francisco.

When he started to travel, he tried to learn French. He mastered ordering frites like a pro but he created quite the stir one evening when he ordered his steak bien cul, instead of bien cuit (he wanted his meat well done, but asked for it to be Good Ass)!

Today is my Dad’s 70th birthday…..

HAPPY
BIRTHDAY
DAD

and a very joyeux anniversaire.

The girls and I adore you and love you very much.

Going home

Americans tend to be planners. They book their vacations months, sometimes years in advance. Restaurants, too. They’ve got daily schedules and annual check-up and weekly meetings. The French are a bit more laissez-faire, you can’t even reserve a TGV more than three months in advance and lots of restaurants will only book up to one month out. Which works for me. I mean, really, how do I know what I am going to be feeling like for dinner a week from next Wednesday? I’ll only really know Wednesday afternoon, probably about half an hour before heading out the door.

With the BAC results out, French families are only now beginning to figure out where their kids are headed this fall, which is just 6 weeks away. This is normal over here. Those headed for the UK have a slightly better idea, but they’re not 100% guaranteed a place, yet. Which is why I was somewhat taken surprise when everyone started fussing about how E was going off to Chicago and with whom and when. DATES. Friends and family were clamoring for dates.

Thank heavens. A few days ago I received a FB message from a dear friend who lives in Chicago and who had invited us to stay with her for the big drop off. “Hi, Sylvia, what dates are you coming to Chicago, exactly? Because, well, you see, I invited you to stay with us when you take E to university, and well, my husband kind of invite your X-husband to stay here, too. For the exact same dates. And, well…” Now wouldn’t that make for interesting house guests?

Compelled by my US friend to give it a bit of thought, I made a decision; I wouldn’t be going at all. At least not at first. Which kind of blew my neurotic mother mind. I hardly recognized myself. Who is that crazy woman who isn’t going to check out her daughter’s new digs in a foreign city, thousands of miles from home on the very first day that she moves in? Would I loose my rights as an Italian-Jewish Mom? Had my hair gone straight overnight? Could I still make chicken soup?

It is really thanks to my friend, Mary Kay, who has been-there, done-that, and who told me about Family Weekend; a month after classes start, just as the kids are getting home-sick, have run out of laundry detergent and would do anything for an off-campus meal, parents are invited for a little visit. How is that for American style planning par excellence? And since I was in planning mode, I noticed that Family Weekend just happens to be during the first school holiday of the next school year; M could come along. And while we were at it, why not invite the proud Grandpa to join us to make it a party!

BFFs, 30 years and counting...

I was so excited about our plans that I called my BFF in San Francisco. The one my Grandfather set me up with when we were only nine years old, obsessed with Encyclopedia Brown and still wearing polyester. The one with an adorable 18 month young baby I have never met. She was in a state of shock when she realized that I was going to be flying all the way to N America and I was not planning on going home for a visit.

And that is when it hit me, Paris is officially home. Warts, fonctionnaires and all. Even if someday I pull up stakes and move back to California in my 70’s, like Michael Stein (Gertrude’s brother and fellow art collector), for better or worse, Paris is my home.

Friday@Flore

Hanging at the Café Flore, I spotted these dapper gents, wearing their formal garb on the streets. You don’t often see waiters just strolling the streets of Paris, because they change at the office. Cafés have underground lockers and these guys change just below you feet as you saunter on by. When they’re not at work, they blend in with the crowd, sporting unremarkable civilian wear. These penguins were cooling it on their break.

A week later, I spotted them again, this time having infinitely more fun, oggling the ladies as the pass. I’m not sure if this garçon* went back to serving after the lovely lady in red came his way, or if he had to got to the medecin de travail for whip lash!

But these group sightings are actually fairly uncommon. Waiters are on their feet dealing with colleagues and their customers all day, so on break, they often like to steal off on their own for a bit, enjoying a peaceful, solitary nicotine fix…

`

Or calling their damsel in distress, dealing with family matters, making medical appointments, placing bets at the races, and doing just about everything else regular folk do from the office. Only they do it on their feet, with a potential crowd and cars zooming by.

It is a lot of work, requiring balance, diplomacy, a fairly decent memory. and some considerable math skills. Watching the tables and joking around helps them get through the day with their good humour and sanity in tact.

And even on their break, these quintessential Parisian gentlemen are happy to give passers by the time of day.

 

*garçon – by now pretty much the entire planet knows not to use the term garçon, although I have noticed that certain Québecois visitors find it rather amusing and use the term as a joke, which always fails to make the waiters laugh.

Topless in Paris

I used to have my very own, sexy little dutch bike, with its seductive swan body and charming market basket, but vandalism, after vandalism, caused me to give it a ditch, and now I go public all the way; metro, bus or Velib’ for me, folks.

But last week I had access to a car. A vehicle just as seductive as my beloved bike; it was topless. As luck would have it, the sun broke through and I had an airport run. I was behind the wheel before you could say, 1964 and 1/2, cherry red, Mustang convertible (that was not what I would be driving, but it is my dream car).

Going through the city, up the Champs Elysées with my daughter riding shot gun, was a thrill. We felt oh-so-very Parisienne. And then we got to the Etoile.

“Here’s some chewing gum, Mom.”

“How did you know I’d be wanting chewing gum right now? I never chew gum.”

“Because you’re nervous. You shouldn’t be though, 1000s of people drive around the Arc de Triomphe everyday. Some of them aren’t even very smart. You can do this.”

And do it we did. Up the avenue to the péripherique, where things were bottle necked and we spent an hour and a half for the 40 minute ride to Charles de Gaulle. And that’s why I love the RER.

That night, I met up with the Yoga Yenta; two (momentarily) single girls out on the town, the top down, the music cranked up. And while I’ll still never have a car in Paris, we had an absolute blast driving by the Eiffiel Tower, past the Shangri la, oh la, la! This city can be breathtakingly beautiful at night. We stopped and got out for a bit under the column at the Place Vendôme, and took a good long look. YY started noticing all the ornate detail in the sculpture for the very first time, reminding us how great it is to see the city from a new angle every now and again. Next week, we’re thinking skateboards….

You who? YUZU

I am trying to shed a few, so naturally I am obsessed with food. Don’t you just love the way the mind works? My latest obsessions revolves around a new-to-me Japanese restaurant I recently “discovered” in our very own neighborhood.

I first saw their card in a local depôt-vente owned by a really lovely Japanese couple. My curiousity was officially piqued, but I was too shy to ask for the card, so I knew the name, but had no idea where it was. A few days later I was jogging towards the Tuilleries and I spotted the logo (ex-graphic designer claims occupational hazard). I even slowed down to read the menu.

A bento lunch and lots of original options. Nothing looked too touristy, although I was a bit worried that they offered such a diverse selection of specialties. I am the kind of diner that goes to one place for ramen, another for soba and is nearly fanatic about the udon joint on the rue Ste Anne (Kunitorya). When it comes to Japanese cuisine, I like specialists.

A week later Mr French and I were there for lunch and it was fan-tabulous!!! I went for a crab salad that was rolled into a vegetable skin and had flavours that truly zinged. My grilled salmon with a miso sauce was just as tasty and I still remember the refreshing zest of the yuzu flavoured jello the chef offered at the end of the meal. I couldn’t to go back.

As luck would have it, we were free for dinner just five nights later. We arrived, but for some reason the menu seemed much less exciting for dinner. And more expensive. Then the waiter came over with a black board listed about a dozen tapas style dishes for 14-18€. We ordered white asparagus tempura, clams that tasted like the ocean steamed with algae, tofu and mushrooms in an exuberant miso broth, grilled sardines and an indescribable dish of razor clams. Everything was delicious, and beautiful and cooked to perfection. There was a perfectly balanced miso soup to start the meal and for dessert I had a sake-infused jello.

The restaurant strikes the perfect balance between sophisticated cuisine and a relaxed comfortable ambiance. I’ll be back. Often.

bikini season

We'll soon be seeing the sea...

It is swimsuit season, but you’d never know it to look out the window these days. Even when its hot, the skies are grey and menacing. Which means the summer holidays have kind of snuck up on me and, well, according to the doctor I saw for my annual check-up last week, I’d be happier if I shed 4 kilos. 4 kilos. Doesn’t sound too bad until you convert into pounds, which is 8.8 pounds, which is frighteningly close to ten. And all this just 2 weeks before we leave on holidays. To the beach. A French beach, where women of a certain age, in fact women of all ages wear bikinis. Lord help me, I need a drink.

But NON! Because that is the first thing I am meant to do. Stop consuming alcohol. Which is not terrific timing given the grey, cloudy weather we’ve been having.  This weekend the bookies were taking bets… friends, family and the guy who runs the superette were all betting against me.  Well HA to them, because I didn’t so much as take a single sip of the evil brew and I immediately shed 600 grams as my just (and calorie-free) desserts.

All those kilos and pounds make for some interesting cultural differences when dieting. Well, not so much cultural, as just plain math. When a Parisenne gains 100 grams, she takes notice. 200 grams and the red flags start going off. It is time to skip a meal and back on track. Try that with an American scale. I don’t think I’ve ever even read 3,5 ounces on a US scale. By the time I reach 200 grams (7ounces) I am completely clueless. Yes, my jeans feel slightly tighter, but that is just because they were accidentally thrown into the drier, non? With pounds, it takes much longer to realize one has put any weight on, and instead of loosing six HUNDRED grams, I lost a pound. One measly little pound. Not very encouraging, so I’m keeping to the metric system.

Besides forsaking all things alcohol, the doctor gave me a list with 20 do’s and dont’s. The basics, really; light dinners, avoid starches, especially at night (did I mention non booze?), smaller portions and no dessert. Oops. that is not right, we’re in Paris. They can forbid baguettes after sunset, but desserts are part of a balanced diet. They recommend sticking to fruits or dairy products. I think they say one OR the other because they know we’d all be dipping our strawberries in crème fraîche if they hadn’t made it clear that that was a non. But I am ignoring them and will be allowing myself 4 tiny squares of some extraordinary chocolate bar every day.

keep your brie, I want a real dessert, diet be damned!!!

Another non is mixing meats and cheeses. Steaks are in, Philly steaks are out. However, they are probably referring to the incredibly odd (to this sweet tooth) habit the French have of considering cheeses to be a dessert course. No camembert for you missie, unless you go veg with the main course.

Today was the true test; working from home with a kitchen within easy range as moments of boredom or fatigue sweep in and give me the munchies. So far, so good.

Going to Nantes

Oxymoron of the day: fonctionnaire. Which is French for bureaucrat. In English you imagine some unhelpful soul sitting at their desk, pushing papers around their bureau like a rat gathers papers for his nest – Bureau-c-rat. But the French want to mess with your mind, so they give their nouns a gender, conjugate their verbs and give government officials a title that sounds like they actually get something done. Its time the Académie française re-define the term; dys-fonctionnaire.

In France, getting a copy of your birth certificate is free and easy to do online with a virtual visit to the city hall where you were born. That is because they require one that has been issued within the last 3 months for just about anything you really and truly need like; your passport, your driver’s license, and your morning baguette. When we first moved here as 1 immigrants, and 3 nationals born abroad, I had this nagging suspicion that our native city halls were not keeping files for the French government. I headed to our nearest Mairie to get the inside scoop.

Bonjour, I introduced myself on that first day, my French kids were born abroad and I’m an immigrant where can I get recent copies of our French birth certificates?

You go to Nantes.

Nantes?

Yes, Nantes.

 

As in the big city near the coast?

Yes, Nantes.

I go to Nantes and they’ll give me my birth certificate?

Obviously.

Uh, where at Nantes?

Just, Nantes.

The City Hall at Nantes has my birth certificate?

Beh, non, not the Mairie, Nantes!

But where exactly in Nantes?

Gaellic shrug.

So I just go to this town and when I arrive which traffic signs do I follow?

I don’t know. I’ve never been to Nantes.

So I just follow the signs to Centre Ville and I stop in the middle of the town square and start yelling for a birth certificate?

Exasperated sigh, Behn, no, clearly, you go to L’Etat Civil.

Score one for the home team, I’ve got something to google. But I’m there, so I proceed. And does this Etat Civil have an address at nantes?

Another shrug, I’m no longer sure if she is trying to frustrate me, seduce me, or drive me to Ste Anne’s.

I mention that maybe, I’d like to call Nantes and see if I can’t order birth certificates over the phone. Impossible. It is not done, and anyway, she doesn’t have their phone number, and even if she did, they don’t pick-up. Which strikes me as odd. How do you know the phone habits of someone who you’ve never been able to call, because you don’t have their number?

You have to go to Nantes. She insists.

Do you think the information is online? Do you have a URL for online requests?

Non, AY-tah SEE-ville, you must to go there. No internet. She has given up on full sentences, convinced that I am a blathering idiot.

That night, I google Nantes Etat Civil and land on www.Service-Publique.fr. Three days later the birth certificates are in my mail box. And at last; I agree with the Academie, because that was a true service.

Happy 4th!!!

What does a music school have to do with US Independence? - photo from the Schola FB page

When we first moved to Paris my daughters were learning to play the piano on a teak 1950’s Scandinavian upright I inherited from my in-laws. I hated that thing, and was thrilled to give it away when the relocation service refused to transport it to Paris. But I loved having music in our home, so one of my first priorities was to organize piano lessons.

My view at the Schola - photo from the Schola FB page

I took the girls to the Schola Cantorum. Every Wednesday. For years. We’d hop on the bus, and head up the rue St Jacques, past the Val de Grace church and into the 400 year old building. The girls would head into class while I would sit in the garden under the centuries old trees and prepare emails, listening to the interweaving music of opera singers, tuba players, piano students and dance classes wafting down from large, open windows tracing the same air waves that had once transported the sounds of Cole Porter, Eric Satie and Serge Gainsbourg.

On rainy days I was forced inside, where I’d explore large empty spaces and claustrophobic stairways. On one such adventure I stumbled upon a folded piece of paper posted besides an old, tired door. The sign read something like this, “Benjamin Franklin slept here.”

The Franklin Statue in the 16th

Now, how cool is that? I explore some random building in the center of Paris and stumble upon the bedroom of one of my childhood heroes (yes, I know it should have been Blondie. We were called nerds then). Benjamin Franklin came to Paris as the US Ambassador in 1776 to beg money and military support against the British. He stayed in a tiny room at what was then the English Benedictine Convent before setting up house in the Passy area that is now a part of the 16th arrondisement. Like me, Ben adapted well to Paris, appreciating the romantic life, fine food and lavish lifestyle. Unlike me, he used his time wisely; gaining French support for American Independence and building a nation. The nation we are celebrating today.

HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY!!!

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