About Sylvia

Vini, vidi, Paris... I look forward to sharing the fun, flavours and fashion of living in Paris with two teen Parisiennes and Mr French. A true Californian in search of that certain je ne sais quoi, I came to Paris an over weight, under-shod vegetarian. I've since learned to shave my legs, wear a bra, and act like a grown up. A lot of work, but I'm loving it, and my teens are oh so thankful now that I am infinitely less embarrassing.

Advent -22

ART

Can't you picture this lovely pink chez nous, chéri?

If you follow my blog, you’re probably in shock that I haven’t mentioned art yet, but I guess I was saving the best for last. Of course, not everyone has millions to give their loved on a Renoir and even Anish Kapoor is in the 6 figures these days (lucky you, Mr French, because, yes I WOULD love to have one of his huge holes in our walls).

But never fear, because art is never far; A ONE YEAR museum membership is a great gift to give. The passes often give the bearer the right to jump the queue, which is always a thrill. And if there are lots of show in a year, a pass  is like the gift that keeps on giving; inspiring the giftee to return several times over the next 12 months. They can often invite a guest, as well, so they can share their passion with someone. Maybe even you (although I really hope their passion isn’t medieval medical tools, for your sake). Some memberships even include invitations to annual parties, which are a great excuse to dress up in black tie, or your favorite scuba gear, depending on the museum you choose.

Which is a really great point, because it doesn’t have to be an art museum. In fact, only 1/2 the museums in Paris are art museums and since your gift should reflect the interests of the person your giving it to, it is worth looking around for the best options out there. Are they London bound next spring? What London museums have interesting events going on? Do they just love making fakes? In Paris there a counterfeit museum. There is a hunting museum for the hunters in your life. Sports, music, Indian art, the Holocaust, there is a museum for everyone and even if it is far away, people like to feel they belong, or they are supporting something they love.

Even better, some of the museums, like the Smithsonian in DC, have magazines, so your giftee gets a monthly update on what is going on at the museum and in the field, as well as a sneak peek on coming events, which can be key for trip planning if the museum is far from home.

Oh, and if your giftee is single, museums are major pick up joints. And no, I am not saying how I know that. Give the gift and find out from your friends.

Advent -21

We moved to Paris on Feb 1. A few days later the kids had a 2 week holiday and then we were back just in time to celebrate Easter. After a brief, brutal (we’re from California) winter, spring had sprung and it was wonderful. Still knew to the area and trying to get the lay of the land, I’d spend many afternoons strolling the neighborhood. Which is how I fell into the dusty, musty shop that was Deyrolle.

Taxidermist since 1831, Deyrolle is a treasure chest of the natural sciences. Famous for their educational posters that illustrate anatomy and biology, this once sleepy little store front was acquired by the Prince de Borglie, aka Le Prince Jardinier and revitalized into a luxury gardening store, with a still fantastic collection of taxidermy-ed animals, mounted insects and collectible seashells. And then it caught fire and he lost nearly everything. The community stepped in, artists donating work, Hermes creating a scarf and everyone trying to bring the place back to life. No longer lost and forgotten looking, the place is still magical.

As you head up the uneven wooden staircase at Deyrolle, it is not unusual find yourself unexpectedly facing a horse’s head, or a pack of wolves staring down looking like they’d like to eat you. There may be an elegant table with fine china and fragile crystal set up, with wild animals all around, including baby zebras frolicking on the table, or a monkey swinging from the rafters. In other rooms rabbits juggle, or dramatically sprout peacock tails. You never know what you’ll find in the menagerie.

A few steps further and there are glass cabinets full of stuffed tropical birds, and tables with long, thin drawers you can pull out to search for exotic minerals. In the very back of the shop are the mounted insects. I love the iridescent butterflies and beetles, which can be purchased framed, or just mounted on a pin. I’ve been known to gift a scorpion, and a Deyrolle ostrich egg has decorated my home ever since that first visit. This year I purchased a handful of heart shaped seashells (2€) as a sentimental gift for Mr French, reminding him of our love for the seashore.

Some seashells, ostrich eggs and printed art are available at the Deyrolle e-boutique. But on our last trip to SF, I’ve noticed that taxidermy is enjoying a resurgence in the US and you can probably find something special near you. If not, my 2nd favorite taxidermist in the world is Paxton Gate, and they’ve got everything you need from the hard to find, glass bird’s eye to an articulated bat skeleton, making the perfect gift for someone who truly has everything.

Advent -20

MUSIQUE MAESTRO!!

There is nothing that makes me feel like I am in Paris, when I am not actually in Paris, than the musique. My personal nostalgia track is Star Tubes 80, a precious collection of 2 CDs containing the music that had me dancing when in the clubs of Paris throughout my Junior Year abroad. Songs like, “Ou c’est oui, ou c’est non” and “Femme liberée” and “C’est la ouate” which were sung by one hit wonders and stars with traction. Stars like Vanessa Paradis.

As I got older and started entertaining it became rather uncool to slip off one’s shoes and start dancing on the table top, so I had to find some calmer musique that I enjoy without making a fool of myself. Paris Combo and Les Princesses Nubiennes became my go to tunes for those years of early adulthood.

Now that I am back in Paris and of ‘a certain age’ I no longer care what my guests think and on the rare occasion I have access to the music, I am back to shaking it like in my youth to the hits of the 80’s. And I know its über un-cool, groan illiciting, but I love Carla Bruni’s hit “Quel qu’un m’a dit que” that came out in the last few years, although I tend not to play it in public because I can not stop myself from ‘singing’ along and that word singing is in quotes because, as the French say, I sing like a casserole.

The moments I have control of the stereo are rare these because Mr French is quite the spin master with an amazing collection of tunes that includes old fashioned vinyl records. Ironically, the French aren’t really in to French musique. In fact, according to an article in Le Figaro earlier this week, the top 10 CDs to give for Christmas include Elvis, Rage Against the Machine, Peter Gabriel and the Velvet Underground. There was only one French title on the entire list!

Now excusez-moi. I must go “Chercher le garçon” and do all “Les betises” with my favorite 80’s tunes before the famille comes home and I can tell Mr French to “Embrasse-moi idiot!”

Advent -19

ALL HAIL KALE

This calendar started out as a way to share thoughtful gift ideas that wouldn’t bankrupt the giver while still thoroughly pleasing the giftee, and hopefully not requiring child labour in cities I never knew existed. While writing I was able to share some holiday memories and favorite objects from my daily life. Before I knew it, the calendar had taken on a life of its own and it grew into away to support people I respect who have projects I particularly admire.

Kristen of the Kale Project is one of these people. Kristen did not come to Paris as a starry-eyed franco-phile. She left a fantastic group of friends she loves, a city she adores and the life she’d always dreamed of living to (quite willingly) follow her knight, Sir Lancelot, who had been transferred here.

Paris is a great city, but life here can be harder than it needs to be. Simple things, like how to work a drier, can be complicated. Even for the French. For a non-French speaker, it can be a full time job (today I spent 4 hours trying to get a sliding glass door fixed. No luck, I have to wait until New Years for my next shower)! Naturally, Kristen was finding living here something of a challenge. And there was the problem of the kale. Or more precisely, the fact that the French don’t eat kale and there was none to be found, which was a major challenge for a girl who had been raised on the stuff.

Instead of letting it get her down, or flying home every six weeks to escape her new world, Kristen decided to face reality head on and do something that would make her life better here; she launched the Kale Project, successfully getting local farmers to grow kale. Thanks to Kristen the vegetable vendors run out of kale at the market each week and the French are discovering kale! And she did it in a matter of weeks.It was an amazing moment to watch. Now that there is kale in Paris, Kristen is pushing forward and I can not wait to see where this project leads such a bright, determined soul.

What could this possibly have to do with holiday gifts? Why recipe books, of course. Give the gift of health and offer those you love a health-ful eating cookbook. My personal favorite is Everyday Greens, but that is only because I spent a year of my life as the official recipe taster for the official recipe tester of this cookbook. And also because I think Greens may be one of the most beautiful restaurants earth, sitting out there on the SF Bay, over looking the Golden Gate Bridge. Oh, and then there are the Korean pickles. I love the EDG pickle recipes!!! And Kristen recommends the Wild About Greens cookbook.

FINALLY, Kristen has a gift for you; KALE!!! Organic kale seeds, in a very cute, hipster package are yours for the asking. Simply send me your mailing address to sylvia (at) FindingNoon.com and Kristen will send you a gorgeously designed packet of seeds that you can plant, or offer as a gift, for a truly healthful holiday via La Poste!!!

 

Advent -18

More holiday adventures in Paris and where ever you may live. Because this next idea is to prepare the unexpected at a place well known.

Mr French and I run the Luxembourg gardens at least once a week, so the park, while beautiful, does not hold many surprises for me. Mr French loves the gardens. His dream is to some day lave in flat over looking the tree tops and I have to say that I didn’t really feel the same until last year on a winter’s Sunday, when he told me to bundle up.

We’d already been out running and it was Sunday, which we usually spend visiting museums or on quality time with our (pretty much adult) children. When you have five offspring, that can take up a lot of Sundays. Complying, I put on some long underwear, my ski jacket and Swiss après ski boots. Mr French grabbed a plaid wool blanket he’d bought to stave off frost bite while watching a rugby match in Scotland, and we headed out the door, a mystery canvas bag under his arm. A short stroll later we stopped at a fish monger’s. He handed me his bag and grabbed a seafood platter that had already been prepared and walked purposefully into the gardens. It was cold out and the sky looked menacing.

Mr French continued through the park, me lagging behind thinking he’d lost his mind, as he walked on. Then he veered up some stairs and marched right up the steps of the gazebo. Spreading out the blanket, setting up the platter and taking a bottle of champagne from the mystery bag. It was perfect. An early winter’s picnic, safe from the wind and rain, bringing magic to a familar place.

Not everyone lives a short walk from a gazebo, or a fish monger, for that matter, but our lunch that day reminded me of the winter picnics my Mom would prepare each year. And despite having eaten in some world famous restaurants, these meals are still among the best I’ve had in my life. Throwing an old blanket across the living room floor, my Mom would bring out two huge Corningware bowls as my brother and I would get down on the floor with our Dad. The mustard yellow bowl would be filled with iceberg lettuce enrobed in Good Seasons Italian dressing. The other bowl would contain a jumble of the smashed legs and crushed bodies of dungeness crabs. Simple foods, from your region, no matter where on earth you are celebrating can make the most delicious, memorable meals.

What foods scream CELEBRATE to you???

 

Advent -17

An image speaks a 1000 words, and paintings demand a talent that I simply don’t have, so the click of the camera is my go to solution for saying so many things. Things like, ‘you’re important to me,’ ‘I love you’ and ‘I totally dig your passion for…..’ and today we’ll be studying those with a passion for Paris (I know, totally out of the blue, n’est-ce pas?, I’m sure you didn’t see that coming….)!!!

Carina Okula is an Australian photographer living in the Yvelines, an idyllic little region, just a half an hour’s metro ride from Paris. Locally, the Yvelines is known for large forest areas where Parisian’s escape to breathe, but you probably know it best for the little monument known as Versailles. Raising two French kids with an American husband, Carina spends her days out shooting. Carina’s work is soft and nostalgic, with candy coated colors that make great greeting cards. Which is exactly what she has done… made greeting cards. Carina’s cards will be available online starting January 2013. Until then…

A GIFT FOR YOU!!!! (or someone you like) -Carina is giving away TWO sets of gift cards to two FindingNoon readers. Just send an email to sylvia (at) findingnoon (dot) com and I’ll add it to the drawing. Please note that your email address WILL NOT be used again. Not for any marketing of anything, not even this blog. All email addresses will be trashed immediately following the drawing which will be held (ready for it?) Christmas Day. If you’ve entered the Kissed in Paris drawing, those who don’t win will automatically be added to this drawing as well!

 

If you need Paris photos and you need them before the holidays, I love the work of Nichole Robertson, of Little Brown Pen. Her book, Paris by Colors (available on Amazon) is bright, fun and oh, so Paris. And she’s on Etsy, at The Paris Print Shop with cards, prints and other gift ideas.

 

 

cbaarch is creating some cbaART!!!

Finally, one of you, my great readers, liked the idea of making gift wrap from Paris photos and sent me a shot of his project, which looks fantastic. For me, it like Christmas is here, because it lets me know that some of you are really getting into the not-so-commercial gift idea! It also sets me dreaming of a bunch of gorgeously wrapped gifts sitting under the tree (or around the menorah). Neither happens in my home, where brown paper bags are often the best I can manage, but the dream is lovely… Here is your inspiration from cbaarch as we all get ready for a very MERRY!!!

 

Advent -16

MORE ART

In theory there are 9 Arts, one for each of the original Greek muses. So far, I’ve mentioned gifts involving the 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th arts (visual arts, music, literature, and theater).

I raved about Gregos and Urbacolors when talking about street art, the Opera Garnier, Les Déferlantes and I talked about the joys of theater tickets including all the best ideas for getting tickets to events in Paris. But not everyone is into theater, and even if they are, they may not want to be going out with you (or me, since I’m talking about the successful gifts I’ve offered in the past). Schedules can also be a tricky thing to figure out.

Cinema to the rescue. Considered the 7th Art, there are movies for everyone and theaters in France have come up with a fantastic idea for movie fans; la Carte UGC Illimitée (240€). Valuable for an entire year, replaceable if lost, this card allows the holder to go to as many films at UGC cinemas as s/he likes for any period of 365 days. Trying to please a science fiction buff? A fairy tale romantic? Vintage loving hipster? Bollywood, Hollywood and Paris have created the perfect entertainment, guaranteed.

Of course, some folks just like cinema, they’re not crazy about. For them there are 5 or 7 movie passes (30-40€) that they can use on their own, or to invite others for a movie date.

And then there are the really dedicated folk who love a particular genre or director. Last year we got our resident movie buff a DVD collection of the greatest Italian classics. Not only are you supporting somebody’s passion, but you’ll now have an entire vocabulary to explore and share with one another.We get our films at the DiskKing of the boulevard Montparnasse. Not only do they have some good deals, but the manager is one of the most knowledgeable film buffs I’ve ever met and his recommendations are always dependable, which is something money can’t buy.

 

 

Advent -15

Give a man a fish you feed him for a meal. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for life. I have a similar philosophy about travel. I love teaching people how to get out there and explore our world. And every good explorer needs a great map. Editions Blay Foldex knows all about good maps.

They also seem to get visitors who wish to eschew all things tourist. Things like maps, so they have created a collection of trés stylé maps (9€) that even the most discrete traveler would be confident whipping out of his pocket. Naturally, I chose their orange map, but I loved the Tiffany blue one so much I was sorely tempted start adjusting the contents of my handbag.

I found my map at L’Ecume des Pages, one of my very favorite stores in Paris. An independent book seller, L’Ecume is walking distance from chez moi and is open until midnight 6 nights a week. Oh, and it just happens to be next to “my” Café de Flore. My perfect late night out involved a flûte at the Flore, with their Kettle pepper chips, followed by a leisurely perusal of the stacks at L’Ecume, and if I score, a return to the Flore for a late night read over a cup of Verveine tisane.

Beyond maps, L’Ecume is full of fantastic holiday gifts; art books, bandes dessinées, and travel guides. They even have a collection of books in English. This is where Mr French picked up one of the most romantic gifts he has given me. Driving home one evening he heard the description of a book he was sure I would love. He made a brief detour, double parking to run into L’Ecume and purchased Les Déferlantes, a book about love by the seashore that is pure prose in poetry. I’ve read it twice, a habit I reserve almost exclusively for Jane Austen. I’ll never know what it was they said about the book that inspired Mr French to make dinner wait that night. I suspect it was something like this, “Written in very easy French. The language was so basic even a 1st grader could read this book in a weekend…” Whatever the dialogue, I love this book, which reminds me of another great holiday gift, a book you have loved and believe the giftee would love.

What has been your favorite book of 2012?

L’Ecume de Pages / 174 Bd St Germain, 6e / 01 45 48 54 48

Advent -14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AFFORDABLE ART

Not easy choosing art for another. Can’t be too large, and you don’t want to spend a fortune, in case they hate it. But sometimes its worth the risk. Especially when you stumble into a shop like Fabien Breuvart’s Images&Portraits at the Marché des Enfants Rouges on the rue Charlot in the 3rd. The shop is dedicated to anonymous vintage photos and has treats for everyone.

A black and white shot of some surfer dudes in Biarritz is perfect for the beach bunny in your life, while the traveler may love an ancient shot of Angkor Wat. Photos range from 1€ to a few hundred euros, so you can even make a personalized collage of things your giftee loves. Or photocopy a bunch to make your own wrapping paper.

Some people really love vintage photography. Like really love it. They love it so much that they were devastated when Polaroid declared bankruptcy and announced the end of Polaroid instant film. Instead of crying about it, they went into action and started ‘The Impossible Project‘ an International Initiative to save instant film technology. These were some pretty dedicated folks, opening stores full of cameras and Polaroid photos across the globe to finance their endeavor. And the PROJECT WORKED!!! Recently they announced new instant film technology that they’ll be producing in large quantities. Their Paris store is short stroll from Images&Portraits and has old photos, revamps vintage Polaroid cameras and the film itself. A perfect gift for the budding photographer. Maybe they’ll start by documenting your holly jolly Christmas celebrations!

Images&Portraits /Fabien Breuvart Photographies / 35-37 rue Charlot, 3e / 06 65 23 95 03

The Impossible Project / 77 rue Charlot, 3e / 09 54 18 67 82

 

 

 

Advent -13

HOLIDAY CHEERS

I recently heard of a (French) man who has lost his sense of smell. He feels that joy is gone from his life as he can no longer really appreciate the simple pleasures. Simple pleasures we take for granted; the fragrance of a berry rich Bordeaux, a perfectly ripe Camembert,or the knee weakening earthy perfume of a truffle can send some into ecstasy.

For my own little scent of ecstasy I head to Ryst Dupeyron, where Didier helps me chose the perfect wine for every meal, often down-selling me to bottles that are more reasonably priced and better suited to my palette. Every visit ends in a tear (larme). Usually its a petite larme of Porto, because he knows its my weakness. But sometimes he’s thrilled with a newly opened scotch, or Armagnac. Amagnacs are the house specialty, and they’ve been growing their own since 1905. They also make fantastic gifts; you can choose a bottle from the birth year of the giftee, or perhaps the year you met. And they’ll personalize the labels for you. They have small bottles so you can give a little sampling of different years and  they even have very single serving tubes. You can order online where there is something for every budget across the globe. If you order more than 80€, enter the promotional code; foiegras and you get a free jar with your order (don’t tell California).

Now wine is not for everyone and I could talk about my fromagerie, Quatrehommes, but I’m not sure a cheese platter makes a great gift for someone already in Paris and I don’t think it ships well (although it does ok when being smuggled out of the country…) so I am going to skip the camemberts and suggest my favorite food group; funghi.

More particularly the black truffle from the Perigord. I seem to have the nose of a well trained pig and have managed to find truffles in Paris ever since my arrival. I know! You’ve heard they’re expensive. This is true. One decent sized truffle will go for 20-40€. But please READ ON… that truffle can make 3-4 meals. This week, for example, I ordered a truffle the size of a walnut (about 20 grams) It will cost me 20-40€ depending on this year’s market rate. Monday night I’ll be making an omelette for 6 people: dinner, with the 12 eggs and 1 fungus among us, plus the baguette, Mache salad and the Pouilly Fume wine will be under 60€ for six. AND I’ll have 1/2 a truffle left over for Tuesday nigh with Mr French when I’ll use 1/4 to sliver over sea scallops and finally, Wed will be risotto for 4 with the 1/4 that is left.

Now that I’ve  totally justified it for you and you can buy your truffles guilt free, where do you find a fine specimen? I get mine at the boul Raspail organic market. If you start at the corner of Cherche Midi, about half way down on your left is a young couple selling Italian goods from a stand they’ve named La Cucina. Ask to speak to Monsieur with the goatee and tell him you’d like to order a truffle. If you’re lucky he’ll have an extra on hand, if not, you’ll have to return the following week. If you don’t have two weekends in Paris, or if you need your truffle, like NOW (which I TOTALLY understand) the butcher Fontaine and the fruit stand on the rue du Sevres are both selling truffles right now.

What special treats are you hoping Santa brings you?

Boucherie Fontaine – 133 Rue de Sèvres  6e, (M) Duroc – 01 47 34 55 83

L’Orangerie au Vieux Sevres – 66 Rue de Sèvres 7e, (M) Vaneau – 01 47 34 55 18

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