Hanukkah: the 6th night

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Talking about all those films yesterday had me humming to Les Parapluies de Cherbourg, the radiant smile of Catherine Deneuve like a benign Cheshire Cat in my mind. La grande dame was in another film recently, the light comedy, Les Potiches, which has he becoming the CEO of an umbrella factory. It’s a French thing, this obsession with umbrellas, probably directly related to the copious amounts of rain that fall from the heavens every year. Or perhaps its because in this style obsessed country, its just one more accessory to get excited over. One of the rare ones that men can enjoy as much as their Parisiennes.

For the ultimate in Haute Couture umbrellas, Heurault is the place to go. Each piece made with exotic handles and hand selected fabrics by artisans right here in their Paris atelier. The umbrellas are exquisite. They are also very expensive. Well beyond my mortal means, especially when the people I gift have a tendency to loose things. It would be a tragedy to loose one of these umbrellas, and nobody in my life needs that kind of stress right now.

Screen shot 2013-12-04 at 9.23.06 AMIts hard to follow in those footsteps, but for a practical, everyday option, the folks at the Piganiol umbrella factory have been protecting the French from the rain since 1884, making solid, quality products that they stand behind. When the leash on my foldable Piganiol came undone, they told me to send it in and they’d fix it for free, which the did in a matter of weeks, sending it back to me by La Poste at their expense. Even more unbelievable… they offered to repair my umbrella when the pole was bent in the closed doors of a moving bus headed for the Ecole Militaire. 100% my fault, or rather Em’s, but certainly not theirs.

The short, wide form of the foldable version fits easily into most handbags, yet opens wide enough to cover a couple walking arm and arm along the streets, admiring the holidays lights in Paris, London, or your home town.

Hanukkah: the 5th night

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Make ’em laugh with a brilliant French comedy. Mon Onlce de Jaques Tati is so good its still on the shelves of the dvd department at the FNAC, while Tatie Danielle had me rolling in off the living room couch, tears rolling down me cheeks. I know that there is an amazing joke in this recommendation, what with Tati versus Tatie (granny) versus Oncle, but my mind is too dulled from the laughter to figure it out just now.

Screen shot 2013-12-03 at 6.32.42 PMOther great French comedies include Rabbi Jacob, Bienvenue Chez le Chtis, and The Closet. I once had the honor of living a real life version of a French comedy, The Diner des Cons in which a group of sophisticated Parisians holds a monthly contest to see who can invite the biggest looser to dinner. And no, I was not the sophisticated Parisian doing the inviting. I was the invitee and I guess our hostess thought I was some kind of uneducated mouton from a distant back water that it would entertaining to have me around. I sat at the over stuffed, formal dinner table that evening, looking at the dozens of 19th century oil paintings of curvy nudes feeling like my spaceship had taken a wrong turn some time after Saturn. I was definitely on the wrong planet! I walked home that night, laughing at French humor, a great feeling and even better when you can share it someone for the holidays.

Do you have a favorite French comedy I have forgotten from the list? I’m looking for suggestions to get me through the holidays with a smile!!!

Hanukkah: the 4th night

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I have no idea how it is in the rest of the world, but growing up in California involves a great deal of time spent in one’s bare feet. In my world slippers were for pipe smoking Dads on the television. Guys with names like Ward or Darren. So it came something as a total shock to me when I moved to Montréal and discovered the sensation of cold feet. It was a traumatising thing for me, that bone chilling cold and it took me ages to discover that bare feet were no longer a option. I’d have to cover my rather sensitive, allergic to anything but Birkenstocks feet, or turn blue. It was a tough call. Eventually, I caved and started wearing socks around the house.

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It was the perfect solution for a foot loose career girl who rarely spent more than an hour or two a day in her own home. That was 20 years ago. I now find myself spending entire days without being properly shod and after last winter spent eating holes into one pair of socks after the other, I realized it was time to go retro and get some proper slippers.

Cruising the web, I ran into this fun pair from Le Slip Français. “Slip” is French for underwear, and this place has lots of cute cotton stuff in the traditional French sailor stripes. At some point they started selling espadrilles, which must have led to these slippers, or perhaps the slippers came first. Who knows? What I do know is that the style is fresh, and fun and easy to wear and I can’t wait until my slippers show up at my door next week. Hopefully delivered by the extremely attractive model showing off the underwear on the home page. Its all reasonably priced and Made In France, well, except for the model. I have no idea where he was made.

Hanukkah: the 3rd night

Screen shot 2013-12-02 at 10.34.19 AMWell, it’s really the 6th night tonight, but in the virtual world we can stop time like that. For the 3rd Perfectly Parisian Present, I’ve recently fallen under the spell of the shop selling figurines are the Palais Royale. Mr French and I have strolled by there a 100 times, on our way to the Comédie Française or for a stroll in the gardens of for little lèche vitrine activity at Didier Ludot’s Little Black Dress shop. When we’d pass by Les Drapeaux de France boutique and Mr French would slow down to look at all the figurines as I’d rush him along muttering “dust collectors” and “tourist trap” with him replying, “You’re a woman, you wouldn’t understand.”

Screen shot 2013-12-02 at 10.49.22 AMThe last time we walked past it was bitterly cold outside and I could tell there would be no hurrying Mr French, so I popped inside for some warmth. As I opened the glass door a man rushed out of a side door, nearly knocking me over. He immediately struck me as the Absent Minded Professor type. A man so passionate about what he does, he sometimes forgets about the rest of the world. The warm wooden floor was worn from decades of people lingering to admire the cluttered glass cases filled with familiar comic book characters, Christmas scenes, African safari animals and tin soldiers representing the armys of Europe. The boutique went from Tourist Trap to Sanctuary in my imagination and I started thinking in hushed tones.

Screen shot 2013-12-02 at 10.42.08 AMAnd then I saw her. Alice, dueling it out with the Jabberwocky. And yelling at the Queen. There was the Mad Hatter, the Caterpillar, Tweedle Dee and Tweedle Dum, and a whole host of other characters from Wonderland, each one so beautifully painted I wanted to reach out and touch them. Mme Absent Minded was standing just behind me in the narrow space. I turned and started to ask about these flat tin (plat d’etain) objects in my best art gallery voice.

Mme turned to me brusquely, replying in a loud, exuberant voice that brought me back to reality reminding me that these are toys, meant to bring joy to children of all ages. I learned that most of what they have is made in Europe and almost all of it painted in France by a handful of artists, each with their own specialty. There is a Christmas lady, and several who only work on the soldiers. The shop also carries some more mass market products, but they are slowly phasing out their commercial “made in China” stock. Mme is just as passionate as Monsieur, who had met Mr French and the two of them were in a corner going into ecstasies over a series of trees.

I left with a small package in my hand, a new appreciation for tin soldiers and a bit of childish delight in my heart. I can’t imagine a better holiday gift than a bit of the youthful joy that surges up when looking at one of their unique miniatures.

Hanukkah: the 2nd night

FASHION! While most of the ideas will be 100%, Made in France, this one is only designed here, but I’m listing it because it is THE must have fashion accessory of the season, worn by just about every Parisienne I spot. AND at under 100€, its affordable, AND it looks great on everyone! Its the Mademoiselle Plume, the doudoune designed by Comptoir des Cotoniers.

Screen shot 2013-11-29 at 1.29.15 PMHonestly, any brand with do, but the Comptoir’s is particularly irresistible. Its refreshingly logo-free. Fashionistas will love the leather trim. Practical folk, that it is reversible so that it will go with your entire wardrobe. Everyone’s gotta love the wide range of colors available and its cuddly warmth. What I particularly love is that it is so thin and light weight, I can wear it under everything; bustling through the streets of Paris without evoking the Michelin man in a ribbed parka; warm in my little leather jacket, or ordinary trench, the doudoune poking out from underneath with flair.

Screen shot 2013-11-29 at 1.36.42 PMOwned by the same group as the Comptoir, Uniqlo collaborated on this project and has a similar jacket available in their stores and it comes with or without sleeves! It is more affordable, because it is not reversible and there is no leather trim.

Photos from their official site. This is not an ad. They don’t even know I exist!

 

http://www.comptoirdescotonniers.com/eboutique/t316-mademoiselle-plume?page=all

On the 1st night of Hanukkah

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My true love gave to me…. oh, wait, no. That’s Christmas. I’m so confused! A menorah on my Thanksgiving table! Ma zeh? Which is Hebrew for c’est quoi, ça? Which is Mr French’s way of saying, “What the hell is going on?” All this bi-culturalism can make life confusing at times! Tonight well be having guests who grew up in Columbia, Haiti, the US and France. Some of them in several of those places !!! Some  have a hard time with English while others know French.

And now there is the great latka debate. Em would not hear of it. She waits all year for Mom’s Thanksgiving mashed potatoes with a pound of butter and gallon of crème fraîche. Truth be told, I didn’t fight her on it. I love the potato galettes I can get pre-made at the Sunday market on boul Raspail. They’re delicious, even better as I savor all the greasy kitchen duty I’m dodging. So just a menorah in our home tonight, folks.

Last year I launched an Advent calendar with 25 holiday gift ideas. 25 is a lot of presents, especially when you’re also running around town buying Hanukkah AND Christmas gifts for everyone in your life. So this year, I’m going back to my roots and giving Perfectly Parisian Present ideas for the holidays.

Starting, of course, with my personal favorite a donation in honor of someone to, Medecins sans frontières Did you know they were founded in Paris? With such a supportive social welfare system, the French do not have a lot of charitable organizations, but local doctors started MSF during the Biafra crisis and they have become national heros, as well Nobel Prize winners for putting their lives in danger as they fly across disaster areas and war zones to help others, regardless of their religion, politics or history. People saving people. Who knows? It may be the first step towards world peace!

Happy Thanksgiving every one! Gobble, gobble.

An African Wax

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That’s is what I was desperately searching for yesterday afternoon. Sounds like a Parisienne’s secret beauty treatment, similar to une brésilienne, which often  leaves women in tears on the esthetician’s table. It’s not. It’s a simple stretch of fabric sold in swaths of 6 yards.

Despite their exotic name, African waxes are traditionally made in Holland, where weavers use wax to create the pattern, very much like a batik. The fabrics are dyed in bright colors with exotic prints, featuring chickens, geese, and Gucci handbags. They are then shipped to African countries where women take the 1.5m x 5.5m rectangles and transform them into bright, cheerful dresses, usually with a matching head scarf/hat that they twist into fabulous forms with stunning dexterity.

When I went to Africa 20 years ago, I bought myself a lovely wax and it has been our Thanksgiving table cloth ever since. 25 years of grease stains and red wine incidents have taken their toll. A few years ago I trimmed off a 1 meter bit to serve as butterfly wings for a Halloween costume, and last year was the proverbial straw for my poor camel when we purchased a new dining table that is simple too wide for my scrap of fabric.

When I explained to Mr French that I’d be spending an entire lunch hour looking for a new table cloth, he was somewhat dismayed. We’ve got a beautiful Jacquard and a stunning Basque cloth. What did African prints have to do with pilgrims and American Indians, any way. I couldn’t come up with a logical explanation, because it’s not logical. I need my cloth.

P1040100Chateau Rouge metro station is known for the many boutiques that serve the local African community that lives in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood. I love that the poorer part of town, just behind the Tati store, is the “Drop of Gold” area. Even today, the streets are spotted with jewelry stores selling gold by the weight.

It was only as I was on the escalator getting out of the metro that I realized I may have done something stupid. I had no address, no particular name of a shop, just the knowledge that this was the place to head. I looked up the street. No waxes. I looked down. Just more luggage stores and gold shops. I decided to cross the road and head up a side street, where I found one African hair store after the other. There may have been 20 of them on one small block. The only other commerce was shop with phone cabins for overseas calls, and an Asian lady trying to sell gold watches to passers by.

P1040099At the corner, I turned left, crossing back to the metro and heading up another side street. A Kosher restaurant, a Hallal butcher and more African hair salons, with a bakery on the corner. I stopped to take a photo of the flat, round breads in the window, marveling a the fact that immigrants to this neighborhood may not even know what a baguette is, when a man bumped into me. I looked up and saw that he was blind. I explained where were and where were headed, as I guided him to the bakery door. He replied, “Oh, here it is, I see, I see.”

Leaving him inside the warm bakery with their friendly staff, I turned the corner et voilà African Wax was beaming in bright red letters on a yellow sign. I walked in and was astonished by the prices: 62€ for 6 yards. I started looking around, and found the 47€ batches. The colors were bright and tropical, and it was hard to resist. I headed out the door, in search of more. The next shop was full of Africans, eating, joking and trying to sell their goods to the owner. Like Goldilocks, it took a third try to find the place that was just right for me. 10€ bolts in a vivid aqua with mustards and burnt oranges. In the corner of the shop, an imam was blessing a woman.

I joked with the salesman that I was in Paris, buying Dutch fabric, designed for Africans, being sold by a Tunisian for an American holiday.

 

Braque to basics

Screen shot 2013-11-25 at 3.42.38 PMA few weeks ago I was running through the halls of the Louvre on an art inspired scavenger hunt, celebrating Halloween with ThatLou. At our first destination there were extra bonus points for finding the ceiling that Georges Braque had painted in 1963. “AHH” I squealed with glee, “We’re going to get that one, I was at his exhibition this week!”

And indeed, I had been at the exhibition with my friend the Yoga Yenta and her Mom, in town from NYC. The thing with being a Yoga Yenta is that you work in a shop. Which means rising insanely early for yoga practice, then spending the entire day on one’s feet. Even one’s Saturday. Screen shot 2013-11-25 at 3.49.56 PMWhich explains why going to an art exhibition is a rare treat for the yenta. She was excited to be there and her enthusiasm was contagious!

The show starts with his earlier works as a fauvist and we appreciated seeing how he got from realism to this :

which then evolved to this:

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I was very careful as I took my photos, focusing only on the ones where photography was permitted. I had learned my lesson from the Matisse exhibition and was not looking to cause an incident. But a guard came over any way. He started explaining the rules. I politely pointed out that I knew the rules. Then he told me the real reason he had approached me. He was a professional photographer and he could tell that my photos were crap. I was framing them all wrong. Zooming in too much and not including the frame. I needed to include the frame. I thanked him politely (ever so polite with those guards!) and asked more about his work. Did he have a website? Of course! Could I have the URL to check it out?  No so fast! Instead, he handed me his phone number and suggested I give him a call. Most creative pick up line of the year, ladies and gentlemen.

Back to Braque. The yenta and I had been wondering about him. His work seemed to mimic the work of his contemporaries. It can be hard to distinguish some Braque pieces from a Picasso or a Matisse. We were a little puzzled about that, so we started reading and learned that Georges and Pablo were inseparable pals during the early Cubist movement. They’d spend hours holed up together, cutting and pasting their collages., then heading out to share a drink at the bar downstairs. No wonder their work looked so similar, they were echoing off one another as they explored Cubism.

Screen shot 2013-11-25 at 4.05.12 PMBraque’s later work reflects the joys of falling in love and the sorrows of war time with powerful palates and the simplest of lines. As we continued through the show, I tried to add some frames to my shots. It’s not easy, as the perspective makes for funny angles. But I kept zooming out, and out and out, until I got this shot, which I was quite pleased with. In fact, going home, I realized that I take all my museum photos of individual works of art for posting on this blog or using as my iPhone background. In doing so, I was missing out on the opportunity to create a bit of art on my own. So thanks to this anonymous guard and his sage advice, I had a little taste of what Picasso and Braque may have felt, exchanging ideas and developing their images in the ever evolving process the world calls art.

The Braque exhibition is on until Jan 6, but its popular, so pre-purchase your tickets!

If running through the Louvre, taking photos and having fun with art sounds like a good night out on the town, check out ThatLou. There’s a Thanksgiving hunt coming up this week!

 

The New York Times

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There was recently an article in the New York Times declaring hipsters had ruined Paris. It has created quite a stir over here and people have approached me about it all week. Like many, the article made me angry. Not because the “journalist” was bashing hipsters, name calling is an art of playgrounds, I rather like that it denounced the author as a fool immediately.

What made me angry was that a serious paper like the New York Times was promoting such dribble. Where were the fact checkers? The editors? If you substitute the word (insert nationality here) for the word Hipster in the piece, it would have been thrown out as hateful slop. And is the NYTimes really implying that a handful of 20 somethings could do what the Romans, British and Hitler could not? Are the French really so simple and child-like that they don’t know what’s good for them? Because lets be clear about this. The French are thrilled with the gentrification. The author was too, when he chose to live in a neighborhood that has been gentrifying since most hipsters were still in diapers and was called SoPi when I moved here over a decade ago.

The cocktail bars he laments are filled with affluent young FRENCH people who order burrata, sample kale and would probably be thrilled to find steel cut oats. These are smart, educated kids who had to study philosophy and “general culture” to get their high school diplomas. Most of them have a passport and travel the world exploring all kinds of different cultures, American included. They know what they want in their lives and they’re dead on with the cocktails. Until very recently getting a decent cocktail in Paris was an exercise in frustration and now its an absolute delight!

The French have been managing this city with more or less success for millennia, they don’t need the NY Times, or some pedantic American who has been in town for 24 months telling them what is good for their city and what’s ruining it.

Skimming along the NYTimes a few days later, I got even angrier because you see all the more important stuff going on in the world and you ask yourself… who cares??? Thousands are dead, homeless and missing loved ones in the Philippines. Entire families have been wiped out. 10s of 1000s have been displaced. That’s a tragedy. And it is thanks to the very same NYTimes that I looked to for ideas on how I could help. They suggested giving to Doctors without Borders, who is over there on the ground and doing what they can. I have been a big fan of Doctors without Borders ever since I backpacked through East Africa 20 years ago. They make a difference in people’s lives. They’ll even help hipsters! I blogged about them last year suggesting a donation to them would make a great holiday gift and this year I agreed to run the Semi Marathon de Paris on their behalf. They are in the Philippines doing what they can and I am here in Paris doing what I can, which is to ask for your support. Its easy, simply click on the link below. They suggested a minimum donation of 20€, but even 5€ makes a difference. Already through Facebook and Twitter you have been a fantastic crowd, helping me raise 285€, well past the 100€ they asked of me. But goals are meant to be surpassed, so don’t be shy. Merci!

http://www.alvarum.com/sylviasabes

The Bard

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I have a thing for Shakespeare. I’ve had it since I was about 9 years old and realized that I’d wormed my way through all the books in the (very tiny) young adult book section of our neighborhood library. After all Romeo and Juliette were only 14 when their story unfolded, so how “mature” could the stories be. Not at all, really. Two teens off themselves because they’re too impatient to check for a pulse. Boy, did that annoy me! But I was smitten, completely taken with the language.

Screen shot 2013-11-15 at 5.02.17 PMLiving in Paris you’d think I’d miss it, but I was always the first mom to volunteer when the girls’ classes would got to London for an afternoon performance at The Globe. Oddly, most parents are not thrilled at the aspect of herding 100 rambunctious teens to a frigid train station at 7am, hustling them through border patrol, and then keeping them in line as they are given 2 hours of free time just a few kilometers from Top Shop and around the corner from a pub. And that’s before the show even started. Its exhausting work, but I did it twice, in then name of the Bard.

Which is why I was thrilled when Cara Black told me that her friend Johanna Bartholomew was putting on an English language production of The Temptest right here in Paris. No trains. No teens. And I could go with my favorite partner in soirées Out and About in Paris.

I am always delightfully surprised when I attend a live performance in Paris. I don’t think I’ve ever been disappointed and this time my luck held out. A professional cast of 5 hailing from England, Australia, Canada and France led us in this Brave New World. Joanna was incredible, casting magic across the stage as the Sprite Ariel while Nicholas Calderbank’s poise was perfect for Prospero. The surprising actor Dario Costa would go from the sick and twisted Caliban to the elegant Prince of Naples with a quick twist of his lips. Director Rona Waddington kept the stage bare and the cast to a minimum allowing the audience to really concentrate on the performances and the play. Because the play’s the thing.

Screen shot 2013-11-15 at 5.02.34 PMThe performance is held in an atmospheric, pocket sized theater nestled under the vaulted stone ceilings in the basement of a centuries old building; Théâtre de Nesle  in the 6th arrondissement.  Tickets are 20€, with two for the price of one. Performances run Wed-Sat at 19h30 until Dec 28 and over all the evening is considerably more enjoyable than anything to be experienced in getting thee to a nunnery.

http://www.theatredenesle.com/e/shakespeare-the-tempest/2013-11-15/

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