About Sylvia

Vini, vidi, Paris... I look forward to sharing the fun, flavours and fashion of living in Paris with two teen Parisiennes and Mr French. A true Californian in search of that certain je ne sais quoi, I came to Paris an over weight, under-shod vegetarian. I've since learned to shave my legs, wear a bra, and act like a grown up. A lot of work, but I'm loving it, and my teens are oh so thankful now that I am infinitely less embarrassing.

FindingArt

More art moves in

NYC seems to have more art than it knows what to do with. So much that some has been spotted hanging out by the trash! We set off on our holidays with a long list of museums, exhibits and art galleries to visit. On the top of our list was the Stein Collection at the Met, a show we had missed when it had been in Paris and were determined not to miss again. When it was in town the lines had been hours long and it was recommended that visitors pre-book their visits, so I asked the front desk staff at our hotel about doing the same. They looked at me like I was speaking a foreign language. This happens to me often when traveling with Mr French, because we speak French with one another and when we are abroad, I often forget that I need to switch back to English when addressing the general public. I tried again, this time making sure I was speaking in my mother tongue, but I got the same blank stare. So we took our chances and it seemed like magic… there was no line at the Met. That rarely happens in a Paris museum, so we felt like we had been touched with fairy dust. I have been in love with the Met ever since reading “The Mixed-up Files of Mrs Basil E Frankweiler”. I was falling deeper in love as we headed to the exhibit, passing a stunning Van Gogh to our left, an impressive Byzantine tile to our right, and trying not to get side tracked by the Greek collection just ahead.

The Stein Collection exhibition was fascinating; more for the history of the family and their evolution as collectors, than for the actual art. They were well off, but not outlandishly rich, so the often had to do with the lesser works of the artists they so admired. There were some stunning pieces, of course, but they were overwhelmed y the collection of the Met itself.

Staying private art collections, we headed to the Frick mansion, not too far away. Frick had been a steel magnate and buddy of Andrew Carnegie. Unlike the Steins, he was outlandishly rich. After immigrating to NYC from Pittsburg, he started to get very serious about collecting art and in a few short years he had built a home that he intended as a museum, filling it with an eclectic collection of masterpieces from Europe. As a collector, he took particular delight in reuniting portraits that had been painted as a pair and were separated over time. I loved the humour of acquiring the Thomas Cromwell and Sir Thomas More (watch the Tudors for an entertaining account of their rivalry) portraits by Holbein and placing them on either side of the fireplace.

By this time, I was fascinated with the idea of private art collections, so the next day we really had no choice but to visit the Neue Gallery that was founded by a scion of the Estée Lauder fortune. Like the Frick, this museum was born of a rich man’s passion for art. Unlike Frick, Robert Lauder chose to focus his museum on a very particular region, featuring art and design from Austria and Germany, with stunning work by Klimt, Schiele, Hoffmann and Moser. Having such a precise mandate creates a small, easy to visit museum with some truly stunning works of art.

Ironically, the art we were seeing was all from Europe, so it was clearly time to get out of the museums and see some of America!

Museum Mile

FindingNoon Finds New York

I’ve got to be honest, I have never been a big fan of New York. Despite my relentless wanderlust I have only visited this city three or four times in my life and only when there was of a special event I needed to attend, or family to visit. Unlike the sensation that washes over me as my flight arrives in Paris, or San Francisco, I find myself feeling like the girl from A Chorus Line as the plane pulls into its terminal at JFK, “I Feel Nothing”.

I respect the city tremendously. I am a firm believer that NYC is the capital of the world;  I constantly marvel at all the culture the city has to offer, with a stunning assembly of both ‘high’ culture and popular culture from across the globe. New York is rich, but for some very odd, inexplicable reason, it is not “My Kind of Town”.

Ok, enough with the Broadway quotes and a bit about my visit. The city did start to pull on my heart strings as the taxi driver passed the billboard coming in from the airport, declaring, “NYC, Tolerant of your beliefs, judgemental of your shoes.”. How could I not respect a city where women needed to rent extra storage space for their shoe collection?

And I started to feel like I was home in Paris on our first full day, as we crossed the Brooklyn Bridge and I saw this sticker promoting an entirely work-free Labour Day. Personally, I am a big fan of housework-free, shopping-free and banking-free days and I am confident that our new president, Hollande would definitely approve!

 

But, you know you’re close to Kansas not the Côte d’Azur, when, instead of blasé, understated Paris, where locals say “Oui, New York, ce n’est pas mal.*” which translates to “Oh My God, I simply LOVE New York!”, the city puts up this sign…. reminding you of how enthusiastic, modest and genuinely sweet Americans can be.

I had a fantastic trip to this city that I admire tremendously, even if I’ll never be a part of it…

 

*NYC, its not not bad.”

Making sense of scents…

There are Californians who are trying to ban the wearing of fragrance. When I lived in SF, I had perfume-free detergent and fragrance-free soaps. Body odor was in. Then I moved to Paris and went into sensory overload. The French like to perfume everything. Even their toilet paper!!!

At first I’d spend hours tracking down the odorless products I loved from home. Especially the toilet paper. I still have to make special trips to specific stores to find white, perfume-free toilet paper. But in other areas, I have progressed. I love the laundry clean scent of my savon de Marseille laundry detergent and wait patiently as Mr French spends hours (ok, 15 minutes, but it feels like hours) selecting body wash fragrances. He likes to have a variety to choose from. He just never knows when he awakes each morning if he is going to be in a kiwi mood, ginger bread humour, or geranium leaf spirits each day.

These sound like really intimate details about a man’s life, but after visiting countless washrooms in Paris, I can tell you that this is something of a local past time. Les parisiennes‘ showers tend to look like well stocked grocery shelves. Local habits were so glaringly different from our three bottle (shampoo, conditioner, soap, who could ask for anything more?) approach that even my nine year old noticed it after her third or fourth slumber party.

Naturally perfumes were not something I had on my radar. It has been a learning process, a slow, painful one if you listen to Mr French’s version. Last week in an effort to cultivate me at last, he took me to a perfume shop. Not just any shop, but Frederic Malle’s luxurious little boutique with its red walls, fine art and shower sized, glass tubes with windows you can open for an isolated whiff of a chosen scent.

Fréderic’s shop, Editions de Parfums, has a unique approach. Monsieur Malle works closely with a handful of professional, internationally acclaimed noses to develop unique scents that are inspired by precious memories and cherished moments. Like the scent of a grandmother’s lipstick, or a late night stroll.

Going beyond personal fragrances, there is a small collection of candles, diffusers and even rubber incense to help you bring the aromas of Notre Dame, a Parisian café or a gardenia scented evening in to your home.

Les Editions de Parfums

You know you’re in France when…

This morning I headed out for the weekly shopping, but this time its was a little different because I was shopping for one teen. Mr French’s son is graduating from Columbia Law School, which is pretty amazing for anyone, but even more amazing for a French kid, so he and I are headed to NYC for a week of celebration.

The Bug will be staying with friends, but E is an adult now and I wanted her to taste a bit of what that means, so she’ll be flat sitting for us. My first stop this morning was the butcher. It is one of the first hot days of spring, so I ordered carpaccio for dinner. I love that the local butchers sell pre-sliced, already plated carpaccio. I then asked for a steak or two that would be appropriate for freezing. What froze was my butcher’s expression. I had made a major faux pas. A false step.

“I know,” I back pedaled, “its almost criminal to freeze…” I stalled with a delicate uhm…  as I read the information card on his showcase, telling me the name of the cow that had been slaughtered to become my steak, “Blanche.”

Oui. It is obvious, you only have to come by more often. You live around the corner. It is not complicted.”

“Yes, I know, but I am leaving for a week and my teen will be home alone and she will be preparing for her BAC.”

Monsieur the Butcher unthawed immediately. The BAC is the French baccalauréat. It is a series of major exams taken at the end of one’s high school career and the results can be the determining factor for one’s entire future. No pressure there, as your average 17 year old is desperately trying to tame those hormones raging through their body.

Effectivement, she’ll be needing to eat plenty of meat. Absolutely. I’ll tell you what. Tell her to pass by here after school each day and I’ll prepare something special. Something easy. She won’t have to worry about a thing. Just give me your name and I’ll keep a tab for you.”

You know you are in France when; there is an information card with a photo and the name of the cow you are about to purchase in the form of a steak, you have a butcher, your butcher is so against the idea of you freezing his meat that he is willing to set up a running tab for a client who has been in his shop exactly four times in the last six months. Yes, we are definitely in France.

And it is time I started thinking more like a French mom; I rounded up my caddie, swallowed my guilt and headed home to tell E that she would have to do her own grocery shopping for the week. Mom was clicking her red ruby slippers and heading “home” for the non-holidays.

 My Butcher

 

A Parisienne packs

Ok, adopted Parisienne. I have had lessons from some pros, but like a teasy flirt in middle school, I don’t go all the way. The first thing to understand is that les Parisiennes do not see the value of packing light. The concept is as foreign as dipping your not-so-french fries in a McDonald’s shake. It goes beyond their imagination; you will not find articles in Madame Figaro teaching packers to roll their clothes and there is no televised travel guide guru preaching the values of carry-on only.

shoe bags, lingerie bags, packing cubes and laundry bag, all ready to go!

Packing properly takes considerable advance preparation. When she shops, la Parisienne carefully watches the sales person ensuring her purchase is wrapped in tissue paper. She may even ask for a bit more. Once home she may go so far as to iron that tissue paper. Sounds excessive, but we are talking about a species that irons dishtowels! The tissues are then neatly folded and stored in a miniscule Parisian sized, lilliputian closet, next to all the cloth bags that come with new shoes she has been collecting.

A week before departure, it is time to get everything out of the closet. Taking the time to wash what needs to be washed and do some more ironing. Its is a national obsession. Shoes are shined and water proofed. Lingerie and stockings are matched to the garments and a few scarves are selected.

It is now the night before departure. Those precious tissues finally come out of storage and are used to fold the clothing so that la Parisienne‘s wardrobe does not come out of the suitcase looking like a sharpei puppy. When I say ironing is an obsession, I am not exaggerating. I would not be surprised to learn that Paris was denied the 2012 Olympics because they were simultaneously trying to have ironing recognized as an international sport.

It is now time for things to go into their bags. Not their suitcases, but their bags. Shoes return to the cloth bags that accompanied them on their maiden voyage from Italy on to the shoe store shelves. The carefully folded shirts, pants, skirts, dresses, lingerie (yes, it has been ironed), stockings and fragrances go in to their individual packing cubes and things are kept as light and airy as possible to avoid the dreaded wrinkle.

Its a lot of work, but upon arrival, la Parisienne looks absolutely fabulous wearing the same jeans, t-shirts and sneakers that I have on, but looking so much chicer than the rest of us practical, but creased globe trotters.

I particularly love my gorgeous packing cubes from Sequoia

Luxury shopping

Meet über-geek; high school speech and debate club treasurer, reading Shakespeare for pleasure and working in the accounts receivable department of a data storage company as an after school job. I was socially awkward, so I spent my free time babysitting. Socially awkward, but rich for a 17 year old and I spent every last centime on designer clothing! It made absolutely no sense, I didn’t have a social life, so I never had any where to wear the clothing, but I was addicted. Tragically, I could be spotted dressed in a purple Norma Kamali, heavily shoulder padded cotton coat over a red and fuschia Nicole Miller silk dress, clodding along in a pair of heels through a public high school in the American suburbs. Wonder why I was the social equivalent of the bubonic plague?

In 1995 my fashion collection met a sudden and unexpected death; well-intentioned cleaning lady meets black suede, red cashmere, a lot of silk and introduces them to a washing machine. Clataclysmic. But life was happening; I had preschool tuition to pay,  a mortgage to worry about and there was just no longer any room in my life for designer duds. Besides, I had grown up enough to accept the fact that I was never going to have a lifestyle that befit that kind of clothing. Especially not in San Francisco where my friends were “dressed up” if they deigned to put on long pants. I still loved great design and would haunt Jeremy’s for impressive bargains on fantastic finds, but I had run out of steam.

When I moved to Paris, I would look intently out the bus window as it headed down the avenue Montaigne, much like a child gazing longingly into a candy shop. Those boutiques were beyond my means, and for a moment, they were beyond my imagination.

Several years ago, we had a very special party to attend back in the US. I had lost 20lbs since moving to Paris, nothing I owned fit me and I wanted to look particularly fantastic (no, this was not my high school reunion); clearly I needed a new dress. It was time to spoil myself and I was determined to find something very, very special. After nearly a decade of good behaviour, I wanted to go on a serious shopping trip. The thought terrified me.

In the US they have those big, friendly, anonymous department stores that were easy to enter and browse. Going into the designer section was as easy as stepping on to the plush carpet. No streets to cross and no doors to open. In Paris the shops are boutiques; tiny and intimate. I did not believe for one moment that I would be welcome in a designer store. And while there are also department stores, I wanted a little piece of the 1950’s haute couture dream. To spy the Dior staircase and imagine Mademoiselle just upstairs on the rue Cambron.

I called a friend for a bit of support. She was surprised to learn of my timidity. A women who willingly, happily backpacked alone for three months through Africa was intimidated by a luxury boutique? This she had to see. We were out the door before I could say LVMH. First stop, Versace, where the salesman greeted us with a smile and offered us a glass of champagne. Seriously, me in my 20$ Costco Calvin Kleins, sipping champagne on the rue St Honoré! We continued on to Chanel, Chloé, and Celine, before hitting the rest of the alphabet. In every shop the staff was not just helpful, but warm and welcoming. It was a pleasure. In the end I returned home empty handed and visited a tailor for the serious over-haul of a lovely, ivory colored Armani dress with graduated red beading and turquoise stone trim I had found at Jeremy’s for 95$. I settled on silk stockings with a seam up the back to give the look a Parisian twist, wore red CFMs with 4″ high heels and I was ready for the ball.

I was also cured. I no longer stand drooling puddles of longing outside of the boutiques, but enter boldly, admiring the craftsmanship, inspecting the designs and fondling the fabrics. It is a wonderful sensation, a sensation I dare you to share if you have been at all longing, but too intimidated to open the door.

Friday@Flore

Immelda, take note… its shoe time!!! It has been a weird, wet spring and women seem to have had enough of their Hunter or Aigle rainboots, opting for the classic ballerinas shoes, trendy boots and even heels. Not practical choices, but sense when is fashion about being practical? In France there is a rule about spring fashion, “au mois de mai, fait ce qui te plaît….”*

Wedgies are back, and this time they are in the style of running shoes, or ballet slippers, adding a bit of chic to the sporty look and giving you an elegant, long legged silhouette while looking considerably less painful than your traditional, leather soled heels.

I was loving the ballet slippers with a twist. They were by far the most popular shoe choice last Friday, I edited it down to two pairs I particularly loved, which just happen to show off two of the most popular trends in shops today.

Ankle boots are in, and the cowboy look seems to have come along for the ride. Went to the very fashionable Merci boutique the very next day and there were feathered jewelry, braided belts and fringed tops for the total look.

My step-daughter is the ultimate fashionista and just last week she started talking about the kilim boots that were going to be the next “must” have. It was not much of a surprise, then, when I spotted two pairs of boots that looked very close to what she’d shown me.

Out last Mademoiselle seems to be an incurable optimist with those melt in the rain espadrille platform sandals that were big (no pun intended) last summer, but if the shop windows are any indication, they are less of a fad this year.

Cafe de Flore

* in the month of May, wear whatever strikes your fancy…

 

A new art space

Last Sunday it was grey, and miserable and pouring rain, so we headed to the Palais de Tokyo to check out the newly renovated exhibition space that is now the largest contemporary art space in Europe.

My first impression is that the place desperately needs a face lift. I loved the space. It is really and truly phenomenal, but it is falling a part. Literally. Chucks of wall are missing, areas are roped off because tiny waterfalls are infiltrating the area, and it was sometimes difficult to distinguish the art work from the repairs. I eventually asked Mr French when they were closing the space for renovations. Which is when he announced that this was the post renovation re-opening!?!

 

This is a humongous space, so there is a LOT of art. And reading the press reviews after the show, I saw that we missed a chunk of it, despite spending 3 hours in a maze that extended over three stories of art. Photography is allowed and I had a lot of fun playing with the interaction between the art and my camera. My legs + someone else’s sculpture = a new collaborative piece.

 

The Palais de Tokyo does not have a permanent collection, and I can not say I was overwhelmed by the exhibit, Triennial, that we explored. There were a lot of great ideas, but even the work by artists that I generally appreciate, like Ann Messager, appeared only half complete. Some of the art seemed like it belonged at the Quai Branly and other pieces were just documentaries or political protests disguised as art. Some of it was x-rated. But some of it was fun, too, and thought provoking. A small minority was truly great, belonging in the Pompidou collection, like the film of the girl who explodes herself into 6 easy pieces that detach and move about a black background (see top photo).

Regardless of the art, the space itself is a masterpiece, well worth the visit.

After the show we headed to the Palais’ restaurant, Tokyo EAT for a tasty lunch which has a serious Asian slant with an appreciation for food that once had roots and lots of tempting fruit/vegetable non-alcoholic cocktails. We invited a couple of Parisienne teens and they found it so good they had to finish their plates, even if that isn’t entirely chic with the ‘in’ crowd.

Le Tokyo Eat

 

 

 

Still out…

After running a way to shoot some graffiti, it was hard to imagine heading home. Paris has been grey out lately. Oppressively grey, with lots of rain, so I am in desperately need of a holiday. Which I don’t deserve, because I don’t have a real job. So I stay in Paris and pretend.

The girls and I headed south from rue Denoyez , which took us straight  the Belleville Market. Talk about culture shock, instead of stinky Paris metro, the air was heavy with fresh mint and coriander. traces of exotic spices wafted pass was we got caught up in a press of humanity.

Once we were finally out of the market, a gentleman pushed a political tract into my hand. I thanked him, explaining that I had already decided.

“Non, this is for Algeria.” he informed me.

I looked him square in the eyes, he looked me straight in the eyes. I could see the gears in his brain registering  that I am not Algerian and probably not even French. We laughed and my friend piped up, “Votay…. Obama.” as we walked away with a wave.

Down the street, and down some more. Before I knew it, things were starting to look familiar. Wait a minute… I knew where we were. This was the über trendy, almost has-been Oberkampf area. Wahoo. It is pathetic how rarely I get out to really explore the city now that I live here. I hadn’t been in this part of town, in ages, and I had never been with a local, so I didn’t know the hotspot to choose for lunch.

Avoiding the question altogether, I headed up a private road into a private housing area where lilac bushes and wisteria were in full bloom. Workers ateliers had clearly been transformed into private homes, artist studios and the offices for OXFAM. I spent ages in there, taking photos and trying hard not to be too much of a voyeur.

Back on Oberkampf,  we headed to Café Charbon. The place is a cliché for the neighborhood; very ‘arty’ Parisienne moms head to this address for a morning coffee after dropping their kids off at la créche and they return later that evening for a cocktail with Monsieur. The food was seriously good for café fare, with a courgette (zucchini or marrow, depending on where you’re from) flan that was particularly noteworthy and a cheap menu that include a café gourmand.

After lunch I discovered the Made by MOI boutique with their Nan and Nin handbags. I love these bags. They are designed by two sisters with a Maman and a Papa in the leather business, making them born professionals. Their bags feature original, very stylish designs that are easy to wear and do not cost an average man’s monthly salary. Minutes later I was swept away by the fragrance coming from the utterly charming florist next door, L’Arrosoir. My adventure ended as it had begun, on a very fragrant note.

Nan and Nin

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