Bonne fête, Maman

Yesterday was Mother’s Day in France. In the US it is known as a Hallmark holiday, pushed into popularity by marketing campaigns hoping to sell more cards and silly gifts. But, it turns out that Europeans have been honoring mothers since the citizens of ancient Greece would get together, celebrating Rhea, Zeus’ mom.

In the 15th century the British named it Mothering Sunday, tying it into the Lent calendar, but it was only in 1908 that the US established the holiday and it started being adopted across the globe in its modern format.In France, it is the last Sunday in May, UNLESS the last Sunday happens to be Pentacost, in which case the Minister of Health, who is responsible for this holiday, moves it to the first Sunday in June (laïc government?).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I try not to buy into all those Hallmark holidays. Mr French and I don’t even have an anniversary and my children are the ones who remind me that my birthday is coming. On the other hand, it is great to be spoiled for a day. And this year I got TWO Mother’s Days, so I was really spoiled rotten.

The first was in NYC last month when my daughters sent me their wishes and some funny emails. After living in France for most of my motherhood I was surprised by what a public holiday it is in the US. Total strangers were wishing me a HMD. The grandmother in the hotel elevator, the busboy at our local café. I felt like a character in a Dr Seuss book, “No, I am not your mother.” I know that the sentiment is kind, but I can’t help sympathizing for all those women who never wanted to be moms, or those who desperately want to be moms, but can’t.

My second Mother’s Day was back home in Paris. Mr French spent the weekend spoiling his own mother, so I had my girls to myself. E joined me for a standard café breakfast, which I hadn’t done in ages, and which I loved. Then M came home 20 minutes late. She was late because she’d been standing in line for 1/2 an hour waiting for a gorgeous strawberry/raspberry tart for her maman. She walked in the door with the cake and a sumptuous bouquet of pink roses.

At lunch M and I had some of my favorite Vietnamese food from Mai Do, just downstairs and we ran into her BFF celebrating with her Mom, so it was a party. Finally, the girls gut me a funny, comic book style card all the way from London, then they took me out to one of the very few Chinese restaurants I can eat at in the city. Most places use so much MSG that I end up with an incapacitating migraine for the next 36 hours, so Chinese has become a treat that I rarely indulge in.

Lao Tseu - chinese chic

One of the ticks I have adopted as a Mom is that I simply LOVE when someone else picks what we’ll be eating for a meal. It is such a relief! If somebody doesn’t like it, I am not responsible. As a result, I particularly loved that they chose and organized Sunday night dinner. Coming home to a clean kitchen wasn’t half bad, either!

Merci les filles !

RESTAURANT/ Lao Tseu

 

Friday@Flore

Last week New York, this week Clichy. FindingNoon has been busy this month. This week I am Clichy parachuted in for freelance gig writing some copy. This stuff is confidential until it goes live, so I can’t tell you who I am working for, but I can say that I’ve been tackling beauty products. Due to some irrational shyness and an incredibly dense workload, I don’t have “my” café just yet.

Instead of a rerun, I thought I’d share a theme I didn’t get to use from previous shoots at the Flore. BFFs get ready, this post is for you. I am not the only one who thinks that Paris is an extremely feminine kind of town.

And while the fashions these girls are wearing are decidedly too warm for the gorgeous spring weather that finally came, better late than never this year. You may notice a common thread.

Because everyone, with a few saintly exceptions, is wearing red this spring. Rain, or shine. Sweaters, scarves, and even, or especially jeans.

Red jeans, in every tone from deep bordeaux to dust pink, for women and men, Parisiens are dressing in warm tones, just the opposite of the New Yorkers and their obsession with blue.

Others are less discreet, opting for the all-out red look.

And then, there are the rebels, aschewing (wrong word, poor spelling… did I mention the work load around here?) red altogether, sticking to traditional black. Because after all, nothing flatters a woman more than being with her friends.

PS, Friday@Flore is developing quite the fan club, with this group of Paris regulars showing up to share a coupe and watch me at work. I love, simply love the support. It was lovely ladies. Thank you!

 

 

Jerome Dreyfuss

My New Yorker has lots of Jeromes in her life. There is a man in her yoga class, our crazy hair dresser and her favorite handbag designer, Jerome Dreyfuss. Some how she has gotten on to this Jerome’s VIP press sale list and being a smart girl, every now and again, My New Yorker will drag me along, telling me that I need to benefit from the sale to freshen up my handbag wardrobe.

Jerome works with luxury leathers; lamb, calf and snake skins that have been hand tanned, then colored into rich earth tones with natural dyes. He creates practical, modern bags with an elegant art deco touch. Practical, as in mini-flashlights on a leather lanyard so that girls can find their goods, pockets inside and out and double straps that fit the shoulder or the elbow. The bags come in a large array of sizes, making them perfect for everything from lugging your sportswear to the gym to a swanky night out clubbing. Small evening bags are even kitted out to double as wallets, which has been very helpful on naughty weekends with Mr French: fits perfectly into my Billy when out visiting châteaux or exploring museums for the day, then transforms into a sexy, chic bag for our nocturnal adventures.

Last week I brought Oscar with me on holiday to New York City. I loved that I didn’t see a gazillion other women sporting the same bag and was happy to have it with crowds as diverse as the after-work, yuppy business folk sipping cocktails on expense accounts at the Mandarin Oriental to  the hipster crowd as I worked my way through the Brooklyn flea market in Williamsburg.

Giving us girls a bit of fantasy, each model has a name which is engraved inside. Before heading out I get to play master of my destiny, deciding whether Oscar or Billy will be joining me for the day (or night!)

Jerome Dreyfuss

Ohh la la lingerie…

Mr French likes to take me shopping. I know, totally weird, huhn? A man who likes to shop? Rumour has it that this is actually pretty common among French men and circumstantial evidence tells me its probably true. That circumstantial evidence being last week’s trip to NYC where every intelligent store seemed to have plenty of seating full of bored to tears (literally, in one instance) men folk.

As a result of all this shopping, my name is on the mailing list of some rather nice boutiques. One of these boutiques is Eres. I know, cool, huhn? I’ve been into an Eres store with Mr French. It was Valentine’s Day their collection had lace. ‘Nuf said about that.

Eres was founded by the Parisienne Irene Leroux in 1968, when she took over her family’s struggling bathing suit business near La Madeleine. At a time when women were liberating themselves and their fashions, Irene decided to revolutionize swimwear design by removing all the internal corsetry. And she started a winter collection for her affluent clients who would spend the colder months in warmer climates. This brilliant move earned her the scorn of the local competition who scoffed at her foolishness, until they realized she had  revitalize the entire industry while ensuring Eres’ foothold in the luxury market.

In 1996 Chanel purchased Eres and two years later they introduced a line of sumptuously rich, incredibly elegant lingerie. This season’s collection is particularly gorgeous; sensible lace trimming iced aqua blue or sunshine yellow silk. Pretty and girlie, yet practical. Things I can wear under my clothing without worrying about weird ruffles popping up or strange ribbons creating a deformed looking silhouette. Stunningly sexy, pleasing not only Mr French but the firemen of the quartier!

A couple of weeks ago I got an other treat from Eres… an invitation to the launch of their new nail polish collection. Sounded like the great way to get our minds thinking of summer sunshine to combat the gloomy spring we’ve had and who doesn’t love a girls night out; champagne, panties and polish!?! I invited my friend Kristen from Un Homme et Une Femme and we were treated to an evening of pampering. About three of the guests had thought to bring along their men folk, who looked very content to ogle the barely clad models as they filtered through the crowd. I was glad Mr French was not around to see these girls in their swimsuits before I get back into mine this summer! There was a lively cocktail bar, but I was too lazy to brave the clamouring crowd, so Kristen and I made do with champagne. And since eating anything substantial in sight of the bathing beauties would be something of a mental challenge, Eres provided fresh sliced mango, melon and strawberries, which went well with our manicures, Kristen chose orange and I went for raspberry.

The best part was leaving. We were given little gift bags and sent out into the balmy night. Balmy? Yes, balmy. The weather had turned and warmth was in the air as dusk settled, the city turned on its gold toned electric light and we strolled down to the Concorde, heading home, ready for summer.

Eres

 

Making sense of scents…

There are Californians who are trying to ban the wearing of fragrance. When I lived in SF, I had perfume-free detergent and fragrance-free soaps. Body odor was in. Then I moved to Paris and went into sensory overload. The French like to perfume everything. Even their toilet paper!!!

At first I’d spend hours tracking down the odorless products I loved from home. Especially the toilet paper. I still have to make special trips to specific stores to find white, perfume-free toilet paper. But in other areas, I have progressed. I love the laundry clean scent of my savon de Marseille laundry detergent and wait patiently as Mr French spends hours (ok, 15 minutes, but it feels like hours) selecting body wash fragrances. He likes to have a variety to choose from. He just never knows when he awakes each morning if he is going to be in a kiwi mood, ginger bread humour, or geranium leaf spirits each day.

These sound like really intimate details about a man’s life, but after visiting countless washrooms in Paris, I can tell you that this is something of a local past time. Les parisiennes‘ showers tend to look like well stocked grocery shelves. Local habits were so glaringly different from our three bottle (shampoo, conditioner, soap, who could ask for anything more?) approach that even my nine year old noticed it after her third or fourth slumber party.

Naturally perfumes were not something I had on my radar. It has been a learning process, a slow, painful one if you listen to Mr French’s version. Last week in an effort to cultivate me at last, he took me to a perfume shop. Not just any shop, but Frederic Malle’s luxurious little boutique with its red walls, fine art and shower sized, glass tubes with windows you can open for an isolated whiff of a chosen scent.

Fréderic’s shop, Editions de Parfums, has a unique approach. Monsieur Malle works closely with a handful of professional, internationally acclaimed noses to develop unique scents that are inspired by precious memories and cherished moments. Like the scent of a grandmother’s lipstick, or a late night stroll.

Going beyond personal fragrances, there is a small collection of candles, diffusers and even rubber incense to help you bring the aromas of Notre Dame, a Parisian café or a gardenia scented evening in to your home.

Les Editions de Parfums

A Parisienne packs

Ok, adopted Parisienne. I have had lessons from some pros, but like a teasy flirt in middle school, I don’t go all the way. The first thing to understand is that les Parisiennes do not see the value of packing light. The concept is as foreign as dipping your not-so-french fries in a McDonald’s shake. It goes beyond their imagination; you will not find articles in Madame Figaro teaching packers to roll their clothes and there is no televised travel guide guru preaching the values of carry-on only.

shoe bags, lingerie bags, packing cubes and laundry bag, all ready to go!

Packing properly takes considerable advance preparation. When she shops, la Parisienne carefully watches the sales person ensuring her purchase is wrapped in tissue paper. She may even ask for a bit more. Once home she may go so far as to iron that tissue paper. Sounds excessive, but we are talking about a species that irons dishtowels! The tissues are then neatly folded and stored in a miniscule Parisian sized, lilliputian closet, next to all the cloth bags that come with new shoes she has been collecting.

A week before departure, it is time to get everything out of the closet. Taking the time to wash what needs to be washed and do some more ironing. Its is a national obsession. Shoes are shined and water proofed. Lingerie and stockings are matched to the garments and a few scarves are selected.

It is now the night before departure. Those precious tissues finally come out of storage and are used to fold the clothing so that la Parisienne‘s wardrobe does not come out of the suitcase looking like a sharpei puppy. When I say ironing is an obsession, I am not exaggerating. I would not be surprised to learn that Paris was denied the 2012 Olympics because they were simultaneously trying to have ironing recognized as an international sport.

It is now time for things to go into their bags. Not their suitcases, but their bags. Shoes return to the cloth bags that accompanied them on their maiden voyage from Italy on to the shoe store shelves. The carefully folded shirts, pants, skirts, dresses, lingerie (yes, it has been ironed), stockings and fragrances go in to their individual packing cubes and things are kept as light and airy as possible to avoid the dreaded wrinkle.

Its a lot of work, but upon arrival, la Parisienne looks absolutely fabulous wearing the same jeans, t-shirts and sneakers that I have on, but looking so much chicer than the rest of us practical, but creased globe trotters.

I particularly love my gorgeous packing cubes from Sequoia

Luxury shopping

Meet über-geek; high school speech and debate club treasurer, reading Shakespeare for pleasure and working in the accounts receivable department of a data storage company as an after school job. I was socially awkward, so I spent my free time babysitting. Socially awkward, but rich for a 17 year old and I spent every last centime on designer clothing! It made absolutely no sense, I didn’t have a social life, so I never had any where to wear the clothing, but I was addicted. Tragically, I could be spotted dressed in a purple Norma Kamali, heavily shoulder padded cotton coat over a red and fuschia Nicole Miller silk dress, clodding along in a pair of heels through a public high school in the American suburbs. Wonder why I was the social equivalent of the bubonic plague?

In 1995 my fashion collection met a sudden and unexpected death; well-intentioned cleaning lady meets black suede, red cashmere, a lot of silk and introduces them to a washing machine. Clataclysmic. But life was happening; I had preschool tuition to pay,  a mortgage to worry about and there was just no longer any room in my life for designer duds. Besides, I had grown up enough to accept the fact that I was never going to have a lifestyle that befit that kind of clothing. Especially not in San Francisco where my friends were “dressed up” if they deigned to put on long pants. I still loved great design and would haunt Jeremy’s for impressive bargains on fantastic finds, but I had run out of steam.

When I moved to Paris, I would look intently out the bus window as it headed down the avenue Montaigne, much like a child gazing longingly into a candy shop. Those boutiques were beyond my means, and for a moment, they were beyond my imagination.

Several years ago, we had a very special party to attend back in the US. I had lost 20lbs since moving to Paris, nothing I owned fit me and I wanted to look particularly fantastic (no, this was not my high school reunion); clearly I needed a new dress. It was time to spoil myself and I was determined to find something very, very special. After nearly a decade of good behaviour, I wanted to go on a serious shopping trip. The thought terrified me.

In the US they have those big, friendly, anonymous department stores that were easy to enter and browse. Going into the designer section was as easy as stepping on to the plush carpet. No streets to cross and no doors to open. In Paris the shops are boutiques; tiny and intimate. I did not believe for one moment that I would be welcome in a designer store. And while there are also department stores, I wanted a little piece of the 1950’s haute couture dream. To spy the Dior staircase and imagine Mademoiselle just upstairs on the rue Cambron.

I called a friend for a bit of support. She was surprised to learn of my timidity. A women who willingly, happily backpacked alone for three months through Africa was intimidated by a luxury boutique? This she had to see. We were out the door before I could say LVMH. First stop, Versace, where the salesman greeted us with a smile and offered us a glass of champagne. Seriously, me in my 20$ Costco Calvin Kleins, sipping champagne on the rue St Honoré! We continued on to Chanel, Chloé, and Celine, before hitting the rest of the alphabet. In every shop the staff was not just helpful, but warm and welcoming. It was a pleasure. In the end I returned home empty handed and visited a tailor for the serious over-haul of a lovely, ivory colored Armani dress with graduated red beading and turquoise stone trim I had found at Jeremy’s for 95$. I settled on silk stockings with a seam up the back to give the look a Parisian twist, wore red CFMs with 4″ high heels and I was ready for the ball.

I was also cured. I no longer stand drooling puddles of longing outside of the boutiques, but enter boldly, admiring the craftsmanship, inspecting the designs and fondling the fabrics. It is a wonderful sensation, a sensation I dare you to share if you have been at all longing, but too intimidated to open the door.

Still out…

After running a way to shoot some graffiti, it was hard to imagine heading home. Paris has been grey out lately. Oppressively grey, with lots of rain, so I am in desperately need of a holiday. Which I don’t deserve, because I don’t have a real job. So I stay in Paris and pretend.

The girls and I headed south from rue Denoyez , which took us straight  the Belleville Market. Talk about culture shock, instead of stinky Paris metro, the air was heavy with fresh mint and coriander. traces of exotic spices wafted pass was we got caught up in a press of humanity.

Once we were finally out of the market, a gentleman pushed a political tract into my hand. I thanked him, explaining that I had already decided.

“Non, this is for Algeria.” he informed me.

I looked him square in the eyes, he looked me straight in the eyes. I could see the gears in his brain registering  that I am not Algerian and probably not even French. We laughed and my friend piped up, “Votay…. Obama.” as we walked away with a wave.

Down the street, and down some more. Before I knew it, things were starting to look familiar. Wait a minute… I knew where we were. This was the über trendy, almost has-been Oberkampf area. Wahoo. It is pathetic how rarely I get out to really explore the city now that I live here. I hadn’t been in this part of town, in ages, and I had never been with a local, so I didn’t know the hotspot to choose for lunch.

Avoiding the question altogether, I headed up a private road into a private housing area where lilac bushes and wisteria were in full bloom. Workers ateliers had clearly been transformed into private homes, artist studios and the offices for OXFAM. I spent ages in there, taking photos and trying hard not to be too much of a voyeur.

Back on Oberkampf,  we headed to Café Charbon. The place is a cliché for the neighborhood; very ‘arty’ Parisienne moms head to this address for a morning coffee after dropping their kids off at la créche and they return later that evening for a cocktail with Monsieur. The food was seriously good for café fare, with a courgette (zucchini or marrow, depending on where you’re from) flan that was particularly noteworthy and a cheap menu that include a café gourmand.

After lunch I discovered the Made by MOI boutique with their Nan and Nin handbags. I love these bags. They are designed by two sisters with a Maman and a Papa in the leather business, making them born professionals. Their bags feature original, very stylish designs that are easy to wear and do not cost an average man’s monthly salary. Minutes later I was swept away by the fragrance coming from the utterly charming florist next door, L’Arrosoir. My adventure ended as it had begun, on a very fragrant note.

Nan and Nin

NON… arrête!

There is a new book out about parenting your child like a Parisienne. I have not read the book, but the reviews talk a lot about how parents here use a stern voice to get their message across and inspire obedience. This is only half true. That stern voice comes with the evil eye, and is backed by a swift smack upside the head. Which is something I’d like to do to a whole whack of people these days who are refusing to use their common sense or basic courtesy.

photo courtesy of Metromole

Recently, lovers have been inspired by somebody from somewhere who had this very romantic, incredibly unique idea of taking a padlock, decorating it with his and his lover’s names and then locking the symbol of their love to a fence, throwing away the key, to rust away for posterity at the bottom of a river bed.

10’s of 1000’s of visitors have caught on to the idea of fixing “love” locks on to the bridges and monuments of Paris. Which is cute. But not really. There is a big debate about the practice these days. For starters, the locals find it ugly and are particularly dismayed by those who tie bits of trash to their locks to make them stand out. A torn bit of garbage to highlight one’s symbol of love? It boggles the mind and the people who live here don’t particularly appreciate you leaving a permanent trace on their city. I’ve heard it being compared to acting like male dogs marking their territory. Romantic, n’est-ce pas?

But now the issue goes beyond what people like or do not like. The locks are destroying the bridges. Even worse, some egotistical jerks have decided their love should stand out and they are attaching the locks to antique, ornate fences and even signed works of art on the Pont Alexandre III. What ignorant, self-absorbed jerks think that it is ok to tag public property that is so beautiful, even taggers do not consider the site to be fair game? There is, today, a gorgeously crafted, bronze crab on that very bridge, with tacky, rusting locks attached to its leg. Non merci!

There are a lot of locks on several bridges now and I have even heard they adorn the Eiffel Tower. People are putting locks on top of locks. Locks, of course, are made of metal and metal is a becoming a valuable commodity these days, so now, some savvy metal collectors are coming along, cutting out entire chucks of the fences to collect the “love” locks and melt them down to be sold as scrap. Which is Paris poetry at its best, a symbol of love ending up in the junk yard. Almost as good as a slap up side the head…. BAFFfff

Everyone; STOP putting locks on the bridges of Paris. As an alternative, I propose a pair of handcuffs… seriously. Never mind locking a symbol of your love in some far off city. What could be sexier than chaining your special someone directly to you? The French jeweler Dinh Van has the perfect pair that can be worn all day, everyday, with a model for men and women so you can even have a matching pair. The perfect symbol of your love and a memory of Paris that is sure to melt hearts without destroying our bridges, or risking the ire of a French Mom.

Dinh Van