Mimosa blossoms hummed a vivid yellow against the crystalline blue skies. It had been the rainiest winter on record, but the sun was shining so bright over Monte Carlo, I had peeled off several layers and was down to a light t-shirt as two costumed doormen escorted us through the revolving doors and into cool, refreshing marble clad beauty of the Hôtel de Paris.
I was right on time for my 15h appointment, which meant I was typically late, having miscalculated that I’d need to check-in. Details are not my forté! In no time, the formalities had been taken care of and I was being escorted into the mythic caves (wine cellars, but caves sounds so much more mysterious, non?) of the Socitété des Bains de Mers, the company founded by Prince Charles II of Monaco in 1863.
because every girl should have her very own sommelier…
A handsome, young sommelier, Fabien, one of an impressive team of 7 was there to greet me, proud to be sharing the largest privately held collection of wines in Europe, with over 6000 references for 400,000 bottles, 90% of them French held in 100 year old chambers of 80% humidity. We walked pass rows of Côtes du Rhone, Burgundy and Bordeaux, to the Ranier family cellar where Princess Grace and her Prince celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary over a Chateau Margaux ’29. In the excitement of imagining her dining by candle light in a white fur (totally my imagination, her wardrobe for the evening) I sent my pen crashing on to the cement floor. Which brought an end to my note taking and explains the fact that there are no more facts…
Fabien guided me to the gated room that holds the most precious wines, which include the last few bottles of Petrus’45; a landmark year that is known not only for the excellent vintage, but because it was the last harvest done almost exclusively by women, as all the men were still at the front. While telling me this tale, he snakes his arms through the metal bars, grabs an ancient Chateau d’Yquiem, and brings it into the light, showing me the tobacco toned liquor as I squeal in fear that he drop the bottle. I see the cave dedicated to Pétrus, Y’Aquiem and des Pins. I see the new stock that has just arrived and is being put down for the next decade, or so, the romm where the sommeliers taste potential new acquisitions and I see the room where a private party can be held by candle light, the seductive scent of wine cellar in the air. We leave through a staff elevator, that lets us out into the lobby of the Hermitage Hotel. The cellar connects the two hotels, for the ultimate in discretion.
At dinner that evening I put myself in Fabien’s very competent hands, letting him choose a glass to accompany my grilled catch of the day, at Le Grill restaurant. He had me compare two glasses of white, explaining that he usually hates comparisons, but thought I’d enjoy this one. My dinner date and I had the same impression of the two wines. One was more complex and interesting than the other. He stunned us by explaining that the two glasses held the exact same natural Bordeaux wine from the exact same bottle, but he had shaken the bottle and let it sit before serving the second glass, “degaz-ing” it and removing some of the sulfites. It was an impressive lesson that has already come in handy…
ps If you ever find yourself in Monte Carlo, be sure to dine at Le Grill and order their lemon souffle. I’m already scheming a return trip, if just for that!
