Friday@Flore: undercover

I love fashion. Don’t ask me why, because I am hardly a fashionista and when you check out the fashion crowd it is clear, I don’t belong. Not that I really want to, because looking that great is a LOT of hard work. I know because I tried it for a while in the 80’s. Turns out that I am really not that great at it, although I still think I looked absolutely fabulous sauntering around NY city in a plaid Grandpa nightgown with a wide black, elastic belt, black leggings, Richelieu shoes, shoulder pads and a widow’s hat.

True fashion, not the silly things I threw together as a teen, is way out of my starving artist budget, and I can’t say I have the lifestyle to wear any of it if I ever did indulge. On the plus side, fashion has no fat and its calorie free, so as long as I am only looking, great fashion is a decadent treat I indulge in daily from time to time, just like chocolate!

And right now is prime time for a little indulgence. n case you haven’t heard, it’s fashion week in Paris. And if you don’t FB or Tweet, you couldn’t possibly know that I’ll be going to a fashion show next week. A real live, international fashion show for the designer Elie Saab. I am thrilled to itsy bitsy little pieces.

When I received the email telling me that I’d be an insider this year, well I was OVER THE MOON. What does a girl do when she is that thrilled? She tweets it, to tell the world. People tweeted back, “Whatchya wearing to the show?” “Aren’t you stressed about what to wear?” Zut! You’re killing my unabashed joy, here, people! I am usually pretty confident in fashion circles (I did learn something from the 80’s debacle); black top, black pants with a killer pair of CFM pumps, preferably in red or with some kind of metal attached et voilà! You’re good to go.

But this is Paris Fashion Week, even the French capitalize each noun, so all of a sudden, I was feeling intimidated. I decided to go check out what was happening at the shows.

Which is when my good friend Mary Kay from Out and About in Paris comes in. We met up after I’d already seen the scene at Guy Laroche and Belmain. She “just happened” to be at the Place Vendôme and I was heading to scope out the Barbara Bui crowd at the neighboring Westin.

“Let’s go in” Mary Kay suggested.

“What? Walk into the hotel? Just like that?”

“Yeah, I had no problems doing this last year at the Ritz when I saw Beyoncé.”

Ritz? Beyoncé? I am IN. And I was, everyone assuming we were just a couple of clueless American tourists or part of some buying team. We sat in the plush, cosy lobby, cameras discretely in their totes, waiting out the show. Suddenly the music stopped, the doors swung open and ZOOM, the two of us were bobbing up and down like two buoys at sea, with prime spots for shooting the fashion crowd as they left the show. Ab-FAb, I am telling you. I was so excited, I lost my voice.

I’ve noticed that the insiders leave the show with expressions of thoughtful contemplation, or frantically texting away on their iPhones. Not a lot of smiles to be seen, although mine was so daff looking I got a huge one for a stunning woman in fantastic glasss. This is BETTER than being a kid in a candy shop. Next year, MK, we’ll order champagne as we wait. The drinks are on me!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Happy happy birthday

Satrapi window at Bon Marche

I have a thing for the Bon Marché. Sounds shallow and frivolous, but lets face it, I grew up listening to Madonna, so I seem to have “Material Girl”. But my crush on this store goes much deeper than that. It begins with Emile Zola and his novel “Au Bonheur des Dames” which chronicles the life and times of the shop girl Denise. It is a romance, but it is also a testament to the times and freedom that industrialization brought women, for better and some times for worse.

Boucicault, the force of nature behind the world’s first department store, was a marketing genius, coming up with ideas to get people into his shop that are still being used today, like the regularly held art exhibits at the Bon Marche. His wife a socialist before socialism, carefully looking after the well-being of their employees. They made a difference in society that is still felt today.

The Bon Marché is 160 years old this year and to celebrate they are throwing a party that seems to have leapt from the pages of Zola’s novel. Some of the most famous brands in the luxury world have created special limited editions to celebrate, all proudly displayed in a pop-up shop designed by the graphic novelist Marjane Satrapi. Satrapi’s illustrations also fly above the large open space, in the form of montgolfieres, bi-planes and Jules Vernes-like contraptions. Inside most of villages there is merchandise for sale. Fabulous designs to celebrate the Bon Marche’s 160th with inspired limited editions. Everything from iPhone covers to handbags, Baccarat crystal to Repetto ballet slippers.

In one area there is a documentary by Loïc Prigent, as he follows the city’s icon, Catherine Deneuve to all of her favorite Left Bank haunts. One of those haunts is Gerard Depardieu’s fish shop, Moby Dick, and its the film I saw them working on earlier in the year. I checked, and nope, I didn’t make it into the background, but it was very fun to see what had made the final cut!!!

Satrapi is the artistic force behind the film Perspolis. Her lines are bold and brilliant, the perfectly modern foil as her art continues outside, featuring more scenes of Catherine at places like her fish monger’s, the Café Fleurus and the Place Saint Sulpice in a specatcle that draws people in, and would make Boucicault proud.

French Food for real folk

Picard roast veggies - still frozen!

My family teases me that I never cook, I only prepare. Ok, it’s not really teasing, more of a relentless nag, but they have a point. While I love a great meal and refuse to eat junk, there are simply other things I’d rather be doing than spending hours in the kitchen making dinner. Anything really, even cleaning bathroom grout with my toothbrush. I manage by preparing very simple meals with the best, most convenient ingredients I can find. In Paris, that means I shop at Picard a bit too much and I get most of my fruits and vegetables at the local primeur, or a market when I have the time, because I don’t mind spending hours shopping (ahem… for a meal).

Recently I prepared a fast, easy meal that my family never gets tired of (they get tired of a lot of my dishes). Here is the recipe which is a really big word to say, here’s what goes in the pot/casserole;

At Picard pick up 2 packages of their frozen grilled vegetables (ok, I know, not from the vegetable guy, but they are 100% vegetables, nothing else added).

crottin de chèvre

At a cheese shop, or a local grocery store I select a large chunk of fairly mild tasting cheese (about 250 grams, or 8 oz) and a bunch of herbs that goes well with the chosen cheese du jour. For example, if I get a ball of mozarella, I’ll probably grab a bunch of basil, herbes de provence are fantastic with some goat cheese and piment d’espelette spices up a mellow comté or Petit Basque. The more cheese you use, the tastier the dish, but less cheese looks nicer on your waist, so I try to strike a healthy balance, usually buying too much cheese because I know the rats at home will eat away at it eventually.

Pick up a baguette on the way home.

et voilà...

Preheat the oven to about 170°c (350°f). Open the Picard bags and slice up the frozen veggies into wide strips. Throw them into a casserole and season with the herbs and some salt and pepper. If the cheese is soft, like a chevre, cut it into rough slices. If it is hard, like a swiss cheese, shred it or shave it off with a vegetable peeler.

Tuck the cheese bits into the veggies, drizzle olive oil over the top and throw it all into the oven to bake for 40 minutes, to an hour.

I serve it in bowls with the fresh baguette I picked up one the way home and a cool glass of white.

NOTE – this dish is fantastic when served as a side with grilled cod or a little lamb’s rib.

For dessert, a bowl of fresh fruit. There were cherries at the market when I photographed this meal. And because this meal is ultra light, there is always a chocolate bar (or 6) waiting in the cupboard for a second dessert. Exactly like a 3 star restaurant. Really, how dare my family complain?

 

Feeds four and makes great left overs!

10 signs I am francisée

1/ I know that franciser* is a word. Further more, I know that its a verb and I can conjugate it without looking in Le Petit Bescherelle, because I know it is in the 1st group of regular verbs (those that end in-er). It comes up when you get your French citizenship and they give you the opportunity to francisé your name. “Yes,” I yelped, “I’d like to be Coco. Coco Chanel.” “Oui, mais non.

2/ I wear high heels. The first thing I did when I learned we were being transferred to Paris, was to try on a gorgeous pair of CFM heels (Prada, emerald green, croc print if you must know). I promptly fell on my ass in front the entire sales team at Neiman Marcus on Union Square, a team of 3 handsome gay men who nearly fell on the floor beside me in mocking laughter. I’d like to see them try and chase me down in a pair of stilettos today. (Now is not the time to remind me of my Vogue Fashion Night Out fall)

3/ I Dress, with a capital D, to take out the garbage. IN my building. I don’t even have to go outside, but I still put on a proper pair of pants and decent shoes, because I know that if I don’t, I’m bound to run into a neighbor. They’ll think I’m sick just because I’m in pjs at 4 in the afternoon (I work from home, clients contact me online, no one ever actually SEES me!!!). Then, I’ll hear about it from my butcher and my baker as they inquire after my health. And if it is a Saturday, Mr French will hear about it, too, and he’ll know I was in my pjs until 4 in the afternoon. Besides, it is no fun answering, “Non, je ne suis pas malade, je suis feignante.“**

4/ I love sitting in the sun. Preferably in a wicker bistro chair on the terrasse of some café as fabulous people stroll by. In California its all about SPF, sun hats and parasols. Who cares about skin cancer, I’m going to die of second hand smoke.

5/ I enjoy a glass of wine with my lunch. Not everyday, of course, but in my past life that was simply unheard of decadence that would have friends signing you up for AA.

6/ My bra matches my panties. At this very moment, even without planning it. I don’t have to plan it because even the Petit Bateau cotton underwear for kids at Monoprix is sold in sets. Recently a US based friend talked about buying plastic wrapped multi-packs of 10, and WHOOSH!!! was that a startling blast from the past. I don’t even know if those exist in France.

7/ Bad teeth. Yup, my teeth are going brown. Blame it on the café terrasse where I sit in the sun. Fortunately they’ve finally started importing Crest whitening strips, so I’ll no longer have to smuggle them in by the case load.

8/ Late dinners. I can’t imagine having dinner at 6pm. I am going to have to start thinking about it, because we are going back for a visit in a month, but the idea just strikes me as so odd. Mr French is rarely even home before 20h!

9/ I enjoyed Rabbi Jacob and several other politically incorrect jewels of French cinema. It was filmed in 1974, and I’d say the main character is something like Archie Bunker on acid. Even more hysterical is Tati Danielle, who kills her housekeeper so that she can go sponge off family in Paris. How is that for a nice evening in with he kids?

10/ I cut in line. I know, BAD Sylvia, Baaad. I usually try to do it respectfully, with pre-purchased online tickets, learning about side entrances, or getting VIP passes, but if all else fails, I walk to the front of the line like the rest of the world does not exist. To be honest, I don’t even think about it, at some point living in this city it just became Darwinian. Survival of the fittest and all that. (non, I don’t do it at the grocery store and I still respect little old ladies, I am going to be one soon enough!!!)

* To be made more French.

** I’m not sick, I’m lazy.

10 reasons I’ll never be a Parisienne

…even though I really, really want to!

1/ My smile. Not only is it rather large and somewhat goofy, but I’ve got big white teeth and it inevitably pops up spontaneously at the worst moments, like when I spot Inès de la Fressange at a cocktail party, and I should stay cool about it, but can’t help grinning like some kind of psycho stalker.

2/ Can’t smoke tobacco. Sorry, never have and never will. Its dirty and disgusting and kills the taste buds, which would have serious consequences for my chocolate habit.

3/ Will never appreciate Foie Gras. Its not a moral issue and I am not so worried about the gaggles of geese who line up to be gavé-ed, but the stuff just tastes like fat to me. The “gras” should have tipped me off.

4/ My bones are too big. Which is a Cleopatra, Queen of Denial way of saying I am just too fat. Have always been too fat and will never been thin enough to be mistaken for a local fille.

5/ I LIKE wearing bulky, thick fleece sweat pants. They are comfortable, even if they do make my ass look as large as the Louvre. So why most most Frenchmen get to come home to a neatly pressed, fully coiffed, high heeled Madame? Mr French gets slobby me.

6/ Too much hair. I don’t know if its the water, genetics, or perhaps all the cigarette smoke, but Parisiennes have thin, straight hair that looks absolutely perfect when twisted into a messy blob at the nape of their necks. When I do that, I look like Cousin Itt on a bad hair day.

7/ I don’t complain enough. I am not being judgmental here, it is a well known regional pass time. My Little Paris made a video about it and there is a popular t-shirt that reads, “I heart nothing, I’m a Parisienne“. Clearly these folks have never spent a winter in Montréal, or a summer in San Francisco, or they’d realize, they’ve got nothing to complain about!

8/ I like to work. The French like holidays. Nothing wrong with vacations, but when your kids get a 2 week break every 6 weeks AND 2 months off for the summer holidays, well, it makes you wanna scream, au secours!!! And I’m not even going to start on les grèves...

9/ I kind of think its ok to eat when you’re hungry. I am not talking constant grazing, but I suspect if it was ok to have a little snack at the heure du goûter Parisiennes might smile a bit more and complain a bit less. It doesn’t have to be fattening, an apple a day…

10/ Did I mention that damn smile of mine?

Friday@Flore

C’est la rentrée !!! That means the streets are being over run by fresh faced, young students heading back to school! Autumn is in the air, even if it is not yet cold.

Some of the teens look infinitely happy than the others, and very few look thrilled to be back to the books.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even having friends close by does not seem to brighten some faces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There were a few smiles, but maybe because these are international students who don’t really know what they are in for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The girl trios were looking chicer and slightly less miserable than the rest. Really kind of makes you wonder what class they all just escaped.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I wish them all the best of luck and hope to see them later in the semester looking slightly less glum and gloomy!!!

 

ps – Across the pond, a certain American student is looking considerably less chic, yet infinitely more enthusiastic!!!

Put a lid on it

Paris, the City of Love, the City of Lights, the City of Romance, the City of hot, passionate, spontaneous sex. There seems to be a lot of that going on in the city these days, and for the most part, that is a good thing. But with 7 000 new HIV infections in France each year and approximately 40-50,000 infected people who have never been tested, our socialist mayor, Bertrand Delanoë thinks its time to do something to educate all those teens out there putting themselves at risk. Being a smart man, he is not trying to stop kids from having sex. Parisians have no problem with electing a gay mayor, but introducing the uniquely American concept of Promise Rings would signal an end to any Frenchman’s political career.

So the City of Paris has decided to protect the sexual active and is holding a condom design contest. At first I got all excited about the project, imagining clever designs that would rise to the occasion, but I got a bit a head of myself and they’re really only talking about the packages. 500,000 packages which will be distributed across the city throughout 2013. To participate, the designer must be a Paris resident and over 16 years old. Design concepts are uploaded on the dedicated Facebook page and the wo/man with the most votes wins the right to have their artwork be there for some very interesting moments (if only the wrapper could rap).

If you’re not an artist, you can still log on and vote for your favorite designs. The city is expecting a plethora of preservatif protected Eiffel Towers, capote coated July columns and poteca swathed obélisks. My personal favorite today is probably the Paris Ponts with an illustration of the love locks by Louise Kinet, but Justine Collette’s J’aime me proteger probably says it best in the heat of the moment.

The winner will receive a free iPad, but depending on the designer and her/his lifestyle second or third place may be more financially rewarding; 1 year’s supply of condoms. I just love sitting back and picturing how you claim that prize. Is it an avg. of the last three years activity? Do you call on demand?

Contest runs until Nov 3, click here to participate.

the sunset…

E left for University this morning. In a few days I may be immensely sad, but for right now, I am just incredibly proud of her and excited as she starts out on a great new adventure. Before she headed out, I concocted an evil plot to wrench her from her friends and ensure some quality family time, I kidnapped her this last weekend and took her to Deauville with the family; me, Mr French, M and La Fashionista.

E and I took the train. Two hours from the Gare St Lazare to Trouville-Deauville and then a 2 minute walk to our hotel. I love European train travel!

After a long walk along the beach, we headed to Dupont for their famous hot chocolate, but it was closed, so we opted for cocktails at Le Drakkar. Our faces fell when we saw the cocktail menu. It was a very sad little list. But the two girls next to us were drinking something that looked light, refreshing and absolutely delicious, which brought us to DISCOVERY #1 / Pamplemousse Rosé; a glass of rosé with creme de pamplemousse*, basically a summer kir, served with ice cubes and grapefruit wedges. La Fashionista let us know that it was THE drink of the summer and I totally get it, it was absolutely YUM! Nothing serious, but exactly the right flavours for the moment.

 

The next morning was bright and beautiful. The nearly mandatory Normandy fog had stayed at bay. We were thrilled, enjoying a great run that became something of an adventure when I insisted the tide was going out and encouraged Mr French to follow me to the cove at the end of the beach. 3 minutes later he shouted for my attention and pointed to the break-water we had just passed. 3 meters of the beach had disappeared under the waves, and by the time we ran the 3 minutes back, a full 6 meters had been engulfed. We

had to climb the break-water back, but with each step I took, the beach got further and further away. Half way across, I was totally stuck, my only option to jump into the waist deep water and wade to shore.

Which made for a somewhat soggy moment as I savoured an orange pressé by the sea. For lunch we took the little Bac to Les Vapeurs in Trouville and I spent the entire, mercifully short ride making stupid jokes about forcing E to take the Bac again, which earned me plenty of adolescent eye rolls.

Their patience with my sense of non-humour was rewarded much later that afternoon by DISCOVERY #2, a sunset stroll along the beach on horse back. The Pony Club de Deauville  organises these rides on weekends, tide permitting. The tide permitted and it was the highlight of out weekend.

Dinner that night was DISCOVERY #3 / L’Essentiel. My trusted Lefooding app had nothing for Deauville, yet everytime I did a google search for suggestions, this name came out at the top of the list. Standing in the hotel lobby earlier in the day, I had just said the word and the receptionist had gone into spouts of ecstasy. She knew her food, because the food was FANTASTIC French-Thai fusion. Lots of explosive, fresh flavours very high quality ingredients, like Wagyu beef. So good, I’d go back tomorrow and kind of wish there was something this tongue tingling exciting in Paris.

This weekend was a dream, with perfect weather, fantastic food and family. The perfect goodbye as E heads off into the sunset…

Pony Club de Deauville / 02 31 98 56 24 / poneyclubdedeauville@orange.fr

L’Essentiel / 29 rue Mirabeau, Deauville / 02 3187 22 11

*pamplemousse = grapefruit

Seriously? Again?

Last month I regaled you all with my French bureaucratic adventures helping Mr French replace a lost/stolen passport. The joys, the anguish, the utterly overwhelming stress. So you can imagine my somewhat nuclear reaction when I sat down at the computer last Friday, logged on to Air France and proceeded to enter E’s passport information for her trip to Chicago this Wednesday. This is THE trip. As in the flight that will be taking her to the US to study at the University of Chicago for the next four years.

After I’d dutifully entered all the required information a little red line of text appeared above the expiration date; E’s passport had expired!?! Seriously?How could that possibly be? Well, at heart, we’re French, so we travel on French passports. We only use our US passports when traveling to the US, and that is only because authorities will not let us enter the country on foreign passports.

So, this morning, bright-eyed, bushy tailed and anticipating the worst, we were at the US Consulate to request an emergency passport. After this weekend’s protests we feared security would be extremely tight, so we left our cellphones, electronics, bottled water and even our belts at home, showing up with just our paperwork. The security guards actually applauded us in gratitude.

And there were quite a few guards to applaud. There is security forcing you to cross the street in front of the Embassy, next to the Consulate, a security tent on the sidewalk outside, then a security building before you enter the main building, and finally a patrolled line of people waiting to be handed a number for the long wait ahead.

Once you have your number, you can sit in one of two areas with a total of 120 always occupied seats for US citizens and visa applicants. There are vending machines with entire meals in case you start getting faint with hunger, a photo booth for official Emergency-Only passport photos and a large, red box bearing the sign, SAFE HAVEN kit, for Multi-trauma Emergencies. MULTI-TRAUMA only. Good to know that we are prepared for MULTIPLE injuries. Thanks for the reminder, guys.

We then wait as we hear one US citizen after another explain how their passport was stolen. A few are there for extra pages in their passports, or the paper work for a minor child, but mostly these were folks who had been robbed in the night. Note to self; keep that passport off the street and always stash a spare credit card separate from the rest of my papers/credit cards, it will save hours of hassle.

The cashier at the Consulate wears a yellow id around his neck with the words “WMD first responder” and a nuclear symbol artistically printed up the side. WMD? Weapons of Mass Destruction. Just so you know, this is the go-to guy if the embassy ever comes under nuclear attack. I’m guessing that means he knows the code to the fall-out shelter.

I know I’m becoming French, because I had brought along every document listed on the Embassy website PLUS E’s plane tickets, university acceptance letter, the invitation to Orientation, a hotel reservation for the first night, and an Orange bill less than three months old. They didn’t ask to see any of it. They simply made her take an oath that everything she’d said was true to the best of her knowledge. Then, exactly 2 hours after our arrival, E had a hot-off-the-press passport that will ensure her legal arrival in Chicago tomorrow.

So in the end, would I rather loose my French passport, or my American one? It’s a draw… the French version drowns you in paperwork until you want to blow the place up, while the US counterpart scares the crap out of you with constant reminders that somebody, somewhere out there, would like to blow you up.

ps On a more sober note, given the climate in the world today, the people who get up every morning, kiss their loved ones good bye and head off to an office that is an international target, well, my hats are off you.

 

 

Lèche vitrine*

a Street reNamed Happiness

Growing up, I was not the girl with movie star posters on her walls. Luke Skywalker did not melt my butter and I had no dreams of cycling off into space with my very own ET. I was a grounded girl I figured, my feet firmly planted in the rich California earth. Then the Goodfellas came out and I nearly swooned for Ray Liotta. Turns out, I like the bad boys. The really bad boys.

Which is when I realized that us girls, we all have a very particular taste of our own. Someone at adopteunmec.com must like bad boys, too, because she has helped he online dating site go brick and mortar, opening up a pop-up shop for single women.

Pilot Mec, I always wanted the Barbie plane!

Like human Barbies, the available men are displayed in large, pink boxes, with detailed instructions on the side just waiting to be unwrapped by an anxious young girl under the Christmas tree.

As I walked into the shop, I felt like Barbie herself, the entire Matel universe brought to life with a pilot, veterinarian, gym buff, and surfer dude. As I clapped my hands in glee, I turned to see Thomas, the event photographer who I met last week and who also happens to be a very good friend of La Fashionista (Mr French’s daughter).

“I’m…. I’mmmmmm….. here for work,” he stuttered, pointing to his camera and very hard-to-miss tripod.

“Yes, me too,” very glad to have OutandAboutinParis by my side as chief witness to my innocent curiousity.

Monsieur Surfer Dude

At 15h the place was humming like a night club, crowds spilled out on to the rue du Bonheur, with live music spun by Mr Techni, an open bar and plenty of treats to seduce the girls. Adopteamec gets girls. There was chocolate, and bubble gum pink tagadas, and mouth satisfying Magnum bars to pleasure their fantacies as they popped into a box with the tux clad Mr Chic, or the plugged in Mr Geek.

I had been shooting the IHT early that morning, so I thought it would be fun to get the guys with the paper. Opening the box of Mr Chic, I expected a look of utter horror. I am probably closer to his mother’s age than his own. But this is France where age matters less, and I was greeted with a warm invite.

Le Bar, serving teddy bears, red heads and geeks

As stereotyoes would have it, Mr Chic held the paper up to pose, Mr Geek started reading and I had to pry it from his hands, while Mr Muscle just held it up to the plastic box, the concept of reading well beyond his imagination.

If you’re looking for a bad boy of your own, Adopteamec is at 15 rue des Halles in the 1st until next week, before hitting the road for the dating capitals of Europe…

 

*Lèche Vitrine means window shopping, but translate as Window licking

*Adopt a Dude

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